DRIVING SOUTH ON INTERSTATE 81 IN VIRGINIA, I decided to make the short detour just over the state line to have lunch at an eatery called A Taste of West Virginia, which I’d been told was operated by the nearby Greenbrier Resort renowned for its culinary excellence. The café couldn’t have been more delightful or restful, and while I was tempted by a couple of hickory-smoked pork and fried seafood specialities, what intrigued me most (and made the most sense at that time of day) was this Appalachian omelette featuring genuine local country ham. Suffice it to say
that I couldn’t ask about the recipe fast enough.

Makes 2 omelettes

INGREDIENTS

• 1⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1⁄4 cup white cornmeal
• 2 pinches onion powder
• 2 pinches garlic powder
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 medium green tomato, cored and thinly sliced
• 9 tablespoons butter
• 6 large eggs
• 4 ounces lean country ham, chopped
• 1 cup grated Swiss cheese (preferably Emmenthaler)
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives
• 1⁄4 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley leaves
• 1⁄4 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a wide, shallow bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, onion powder, garlic powder, salt, and pepper. Stir until well blended.
2. Dredge the tomato slices in the flour mixture.
3. In a medium skillet, melt 3 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat.
4. Add the coated tomato slices to the skillet and fry until golden, about 2 minutes on each side. Set aside.
5. Crack 3 of the eggs into a small bowl and beat well.
6. Melt 3 more tablespoons of butter in the skillet over moderate heat.
7. Add the chopped ham to the skillet and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
8. Pour the beaten eggs over the ham and stir until wet curds form.
9. Scatter half of the grated cheese and half of the fried tomatoes over the top of the eggs.
10. Sprinkle half of the chopped chives, parsley, and tarragon over the top.
11. Cook until the eggs are just set, about 1 minute.
12. With a spatula, flip one half of the omelette over the other half.
13. Let it sit for 1 minute, then transfer to a heated plate.
14. Repeat the process with the remaining ingredients to make a second omelette.