MY FRIEND DAMON LEE FOWLER TELLS OF FORMAL evenings in Savannah when, after supper, guests traditionally shed their jackets, loosen their ties, discard earrings in empty ashtrays, open a last bottle of Champagne, and, still not ready to call it a night, end up taking leftover shrimp from the buffet and folding them into midnight omelettes. It’s without question one of the most decadent scenarios imaginable—right out of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil—and one that I’ve emulated twice in my own home, using freshly boiled shrimp. Since it’s a bit tricky for one person to handle two of these omelettes at the same time, the best idea is to let other guests join in on the fun and test their skills at the stove. If the omelettes don’t turn out perfect, so what? With these, I’d also toast a batch of buttermilk biscuit halves, and, yes, pop another bottle of bubbly.

Makes 2 large omelettes (4 servings)

INGREDIENTS

• 1⁄2 pound medium shrimp
• 8 large eggs
• Salt and cayenne pepper to taste
• 6 tablespoons (3⁄4 stick) butter

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Place the shrimp in a large saucepan with enough water to cover.
2. Bring the saucepan to a boil, then remove from the heat and let stand for 2 minutes.
3. Drain the shrimp and refresh them under cold running water.
4. Peel and devein the shrimp, then cut them in half crosswise.
5. In two large, heavy skillets, melt equal amounts of butter in each over moderate heat.
6. Add equal amounts of the reserved shrimp shells to each skillet and stir for about 4 minutes.
7. Use a slotted spoon to lift the shells from the pans and discard them.
8. Increase the heat to moderately high.
9. Break the eggs equally into two separate bowls and season with salt and cayenne.
10. Beat the eggs lightly with a fork.
11. Add a bowl of eggs to each skillet and stir each with a fork until soft curds form and the eggs are just set on the bottoms.
12. Scatter equal amounts of the shrimp over the centers of the eggs.
13. Lift two edges of the omelettes up over the shrimp with a spatula.
14. Turn off the heat and let the omelettes stand until the shrimp are well heated but the centers are still creamy.
15. Cut the omelettes in half and serve immediately on heated plates.