Fit for Company, Fit for a Crowd, Grass-Fed Veal, Cheap Eats, Rewarms Well

When it comes to feeding a large gathering for a special occasion without breaking the bank, stuffed veal breast is at the top of my list, and it ranks as one of my all-time favorite meat dishes, period. Why wouldn’t it be delicious? This cut is made up of some of the tastiest areas of the animal, the brisket and the ribs, the veal equivalent of short ribs. Pasture-raised veal breast is particularly good, because it has ample fat, and its succulent meat has more flavor than formula-fed veal. I like to use a whole bone-in breast, which makes a spectacular presentation. If you can’t find it, purchase two of the rib sections, which should include 4 ribs. You can also buy a boneless veal breast. Breast of veal is an ideal dish to serve for a Hanukkah feast. If need be, the breast can be purchased from a kosher butcher. To make this recipe suitable for kosher cooking, omit the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Veal breast is often sold with a pocket already cut into it; if you need to cut the pocket yourself, see Cook’s Notes.

Serves 8, with leftovers

INGREDIENTS

CARDAMOM-PAPRIKA RUB:

• 1 tablespoon salt
• 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon sweet Hungarian paprika
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage
• 1 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 8- to 10-pound bone-in veal breast with a pocket cut for stuffing, two 4-rib boneless or bone-in breasts with a pocket cut for stuffing (6–8 pounds total; see Cook’s Notes), or one 5- to 6-pound boneless veal breast with a pocket cut for stuffing

MUSHROOM AND CHARD STUFFING:

• 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
• 2 cups boiling water
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 cups chopped onions
• 2 cups chopped leeks (white and pale green parts)
• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 pound mushrooms, chopped
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage
• 1 bunch chard, leaves stripped from stems (stems reserved for another purpose)
• 4 cups diced (½ inch) day-old bread (I use sourdough French bread)
• ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten

BRAISING LIQUID:

• 2 cups chopped leeks (white and pale green parts)
• 1 cup chopped onions
• 2 cups peeled and diced carrots
• 1 cup diced celery
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage
• 2 teaspoons sweet Hungarian paprika
• 2 cups dry white wine
• 1 cup homemade vealstock or canned low-sodium chicken broth, or more as needed

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Rub: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Rub all the mixture over the veal breast(s) and set aside while you make the stuffing. (For more flavor, wrap the veal in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.)
2. Stuffing: Place the dried porcini in a small glass bowl and cover with the boiling water. Soak for at least 45 minutes, or up to several hours, until soft.
3. Remove the porcini from the liquid with a slotted spoon. Chop and set aside. Strain the soaking liquid, leaving behind any grit in the bottom of the bowl, and reserve.
4. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions, leeks, and garlic and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cover and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the fresh mushrooms, sage, and porcini. Cook, stirring, until the fresh mushrooms are soft and fragrant, about 5 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, bring a pot of salted water to a bowl. Add the chard and blanch for 5 minutes, or until wilted and tender. Drain, then cool, squeeze out as much liquid as you can, and chop.
6. Place the bread cubes in a large bowl and add the mushroom mixture, with any liquid in the pan, and the chard. Add the cheese and eggs and stir to moisten the bread, adding a little of the reserved porcini soaking liquid if necessary. (It should be moist enough to just hold together when mounded on a spoon.) Season to taste with salt and pepper.
7. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
8. Stuff the veal breast(s) with the stuffing. Do not pack too tightly because the stuffing will expand during cooking. (Place any excess stuffing in a buttered casserole dish and bake, covered, for for 30 to 40 minutes.) Sew the pocket closed with twine or use small skewers to close it.
9.  Braising liquid: Scatter the leeks, onions, carrots, and celery over the bottom of a roasting pan big enough to hold the veal. Sprinkle with some salt and pepper and the sage and paprika. Lay the veal bone side down on top of the vegetables. Pour in the white wine, stock, and any remaining porcini soaking liquid. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and roast for 2 hours. Remove the foil and ladle some of the juices over the veal. Continue to roast, uncovered, for 1 hour more, or until the veal is golden brown and tender, adding more stock if necessary. Transfer the veal breast to a carving board and cover loosely with aluminum foil while you make the sauce.
10. Pour the contents of the roasting pan into a large saucepan and degrease the surface. Strain the sauce and transfer the vegetables to a blender. Puree the vegetables, then whisk them back into the sauce. If it is too thin, boil briefly to reduce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
11. To serve, slice the veal between the bones into thick slices, or cut boneless veal into ¾-inch slices. Moisten each slice with some sauce and pass the rest at the table.

COOK’S NOTE:

• If your veal breast does not already have a pocket cut into it, lay the breast on a work surface with the thicker, long side facing you and the bone side down. Trim off as much external fat as you can. Insert a long sharp knife into the center of the side facing you and cut a pocket along the full length of the veal breast, leaving a 1- to 2-inch border on the 3 remaining sides. Run your hand around inside the pocket to make sure that no surfaces adhere to one another.
• The stuffing can be used to stuff any roast, such as a butterflied veal shoulder, boneless leg of lamb, or boneless leg of pork. For these cuts, reduce the recipe by half. The stuffing is also a great side dish. Toss with ½ cup melted butter and bake, uncovered, in a buttered baking dish for 30 to 40 minutes at 325°F.

LEFTOVERS:

• The veal rewarms well in the sauce. You can also eat the roast cold or use as a filling for sandwiches in place of cold meat loaf.