Comfort Food, Rewarms Well, Great Leftovers

I first encountered grillades, a spicy veal version of braised steak, at the New Orleans restaurant Dooky Chase. Eating at the restaurant is like visiting the high temple of Creole cooking to pay homage to a master priestess. Now well into her eighties, Leah Chase still tends to her bubbling pots each day in her kitchen. Soon after I met Leah, we became good friends. On one of my visits, she asked me and some Bay Area chef buddies if we had ever had a proper Creole breakfast. We had not. The next day, breakfast began around eleven o’clock and didn’t end until near five. Who would have thought that braised thin sheets of veal served over grits could be so good? This is a substantial dish worthy of serving as a hearty dinner. It rewarms well and can be made a day or so ahead. If you want, serve the grillades with poached eggs nestled on top. Grillades are best made with rosy veal from pasture-raised calves, which has enough flavor to stand up to the spicy sauce.

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS

GRILLADES SPICE RUB:

• 2 teaspoons Spanish paprika (pimentón de la Vera; see Sources) or sweet Hungarian paprika
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 teaspoons dried thyme
• 2 teaspoons dried basil
• 2 teaspoons ground sage
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

GRILLADES:

• 1 2½-pound boneless veal chuck roast, such as shoulder clod, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
• ½ cup all-purpose flour
• 3 tablespoons peanut oil, or more if needed
• 3 cups finely chopped onions
• 1 cup finely chopped celery
• ¼ cup finely chopped green bell pepper
• ½ cup finely chopped red bell pepper
• ½ pound andouille sausage, cut into ½-inch dice
• 2 tablespoons chopped garlic
• 8 scallions, white and green parts separated and finely chopped
• 2 cups homemade beef, pork, or veal stock (see [>]) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
• 1 cup peeled and chopped vine-ripened tomatoes or diced canned tomatoes (I use Muir Glen)
• 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
• ½ teaspoon dried thyme
• ½ teaspoon dried basil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Tabasco or other hot sauce
• Cheesy Grits (recipe follows)

CHEESY GRITS:

• 3 cups whole milk
• 3 cups water
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1½ cups stone-ground grits (not instant)
• 1 teaspoon Tabasco or other hot sauce
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• ½ cup half-and-half
• 2 cups finely sliced fresh chives or scallions
• ¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1½ cups grated sharp cheddar cheese

INSTRUCTIONS

GRILLADES:

1. Rub: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Sprinkle generously over both sides of the sliced meat. Save any leftover rub to add to the sauce.

2. Dredge: Spread the flour out in a pie tin or shallow bowl. Dredge each veal slice in the flour so that both sides are coated. Shake off the excess flour and place the slices on a platter or baking sheet.

3. Fry: Heat a large deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the oil. Add the meat slices, in batches so that the pan is not overcrowded. Fry for 2 minutes per side, or until nicely browned. Remove the slices as they are done and set aside. Add more oil if needed.

4. Cook Vegetables and Sausage: Reduce the heat to medium, add the onions and celery, and cook until softened. Stir and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Cover and continue to cook until the vegetables are soft and beginning to color, stirring from time to time, about 10 minutes. Stir in the bell peppers and sausage and cook for 4 to 5 minutes more. Stir in the garlic and scallion whites. Set aside ¼ cup of the scallion greens and add the rest to the pan.Cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

5. Add Liquids and Meat: Add the stock, tomatoes, Worcestershire, thyme, basil, and any remaining spice rub. Stir, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Return the meat to the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cover the pan. Cook for 45 minutes, or until the meat is tender. Check every 15 minutes. If desired, cool and refrigerate the grillades overnight.

6. Adjust Seasoning and Serve: Degrease the surface of the sauce. Adjust the seasoning by adding salt, pepper, and/or Tabasco to suit your taste. Spoon the grits into a large shallow bowl or onto a platter and top with the meat and sauce. Garnish with the reserved scallion greens.

CHEESY GRITS:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 2-quart casserole.
2. Bring the milk and water to a boil in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the salt. Pour the grits in slowly, stirring constantly and keeping the mixture gently boiling. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring, for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the grits have thickened and are soft. Taste to make sure. Remove from the heat and cool for at least 10 minutes.
3. Stir the Tabasco, eggs, half-and-half, chives, parsley, and 1¼ cups of the cheese into the grits. Spoon the grits into the casserole and sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup cheese.
4. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until the top is puffed and a light golden brown.

ALTERNATIVE CUTS:

• Slices cut from the leg (called veal round steak), veal sirloin, or veal rump, can be used for this recipe, but these leaner cuts can dry out easily, so you may want to treat them like veal cutlets and cook them in the sauce for only 3 to 5 minutes. (Cook the sauce separately for the full 45 minutes so that the flavors can adequately develop.) You can also make grillades with beef, choosing slices cut from the chuck, shoulder clod, rump, or top round. I also like grillades with pork slices cut from the Boston butt; treat as you would veal.

COOK’S NOTE:

• To serve with poached eggs, poach the eggs ahead of time and cool in cold water. Rewarm in hot water just before serving and garnish with grated cheddar cheese.