Crispy Panfried Sweetbreads

In a Hurry, Fit for Company First chilled until firm, the poached sweetbreads are sliced, dipped in flour, egg whites, and panko bread crumbs and panfried, which give them a lovely crisp coating. Serve them “saltimbocca” style with the prosciutto and sage sauce or with lemon wedges on lightly dressed salad greens or a bed […]

SWEETBREAD SALAD

Serves 4   INGREDIENTS 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1½ tablespoons sherry vinegar 2 teaspoons finely chopped shallot 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons warm reserved sweetbread poaching oil (see above) ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 cups salad greens, such as friseé, mesclun, or curly endive Olive Oil-Poached […]

Olive Oil-Poached Veal Sweetbreads

Fit for Company Anyone who has cooked veal sweetbreads knows they take considerable advance preparation. The most finicky step is removing the tough membranes and then pressing the sweetbreads to make them firmer and easier to cut. My friend, the talented Italian chef Franco Dunn, has worked out a simpler method of slowly poaching the […]

Calf’S Liver with Four Lilies and Sun-Dried Tart Cherries

In a Hurry, Family Meal Onions, shallots, leeks, and scallions are all members of the lily family. While onions are the classic accompaniment to calf’s liver, shallots, leeks, and scallions are also delicious paired with it, contributing their own subtle nuances. Dried cherries and a little sherry vinegar add a gently tart flavor to counterbalance […]

VEAL SHANK RAVIOLI WITH BROWN BUTTER AND SAGE

Serves 6 (makes about 4 dozen ravioli)   INGREDIENTS 1 cup diced leftover braised osso buco ½ cup smashed vegetables from Osso Buco braising liquid 2 tablespoons or more leftover osso buco sauce ¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving Salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ pound fresh pasta dough (homemade or […]

Jeff’s Osso Buco with Artichokes

Fit for Company, Great Leftovers, Rewarms Well, Two-for-One Tender baby artichokes are just right with veal. Crème fraîche adds richness, while lemon zest, parsley, and chives give the stew a bright, fresh finish. Serves 4, with leftovers   INGREDIENTS 3-4 pounds osso buco (veal shanks cut into 2-inch-thick rounds) Salt and freshly ground black pepper […]

Provençal-Style Braised Veal Breast Ragú

Rewarms Well When it comes to choosing cuts for veal stew, I prefer ribs cut from a breast of veal, which have enough fat and collagen to turn tender and silky when fully cooked. My next choice is boneless veal breast. Otherwise, use any cut from the shoulder area and cut it into 2-inch cubes. […]

New Orleans Veal Grillades with Cheesy Grits

Comfort Food, Rewarms Well, Great Leftovers I first encountered grillades, a spicy veal version of braised steak, at the New Orleans restaurant Dooky Chase. Eating at the restaurant is like visiting the high temple of Creole cooking to pay homage to a master priestess. Now well into her eighties, Leah Chase still tends to her […]

Pot-Roasted Veal on a Cloud

Comfort Food, Fit for Company, Fit for a Crowd Every time I get together with Beth Setrakian, the conversation turns to food. Beth owns a cookie company called Beth’s Community Kitchen, but the cookies she makes there are just a small example of her talents. One night over dinner, she waxed exuberant over some of […]