Rewarms Well
When it comes to choosing cuts for veal stew, I prefer ribs cut from a breast of veal, which have enough fat and collagen to turn tender and silky when fully cooked. My next choice is boneless veal breast. Otherwise, use any cut from the shoulder area and cut it into 2-inch cubes. Like so much of the cooking of Provence, this stew is full flavored and rustic, relying on some of the classic regional ingredients: olives, olive oil, anchovies, and tomatoes. I like to make the stew in the late summer or early fall, when vine-ripened tomatoes are at their peak. This dish calls out for a bottle of red wine, such as Gigondas, Vacqueyras, or Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Serves 6
INGREDIENTS
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
- 4 pounds veal breast with bones, cut between the ribs and then each rib cut into 2 pieces (have the butcher do this), or 3 pounds boneless veal shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 cups thinly sliced onions
- ¼ cup chopped shallots
- 3 tablespoons minced garlic
- 3 anchovy fillets, minced
- 1 cup dry white wine
- ¼ cup Pernod or other anise-flavored liquor, such as anisette
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or 2 teaspoons dried
- 2 cups peeled and chopped vine-ripened tomatoes or canned diced tomatoes (I use Muir Glen)
- 1 cup homemade veal stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
- 2 cups pearl onions, peeled
- 1 cup green olives, such as picholine
- 2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest
INSTRUCTIONS
- Preheat the oven to 325°F.
- Combine 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, the thyme, and sage in a small bowl. Sprinkle all over the veal.
- Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the veal and brown all over, 7 to 10 minutes. (You may need to do this in batches.) Transfer to a bowl and set aside.
- Reduce the heat to medium and add the onions, shallots, and garlic. Cover and cook, stirring and scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot, until the vegetables are soft and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Stir in the anchovies and cook for 1 minute more. Pour in the white wine and Pernod and bring to a boil. Boil to reduce the liquid by half, continuing to scrape up any browned bits.
- Add the tarragon, tomatoes, stock, and the meat, and any juices from the bowl. Cover and bake until the meat is tender, about 1½ hours. If not tender, continue to cook, checking every 30 minutes.
- Add the pearl onions and olives and cook for 15 minutes more, or until the onions are tender. (At this point, you can cool the ragu and refrigerate overnight.)
- Remove any fat from the surface of the sauce and taste the liquid. If it is too thin, remove the solids and boil down to a syrupy consistency, then add back the solids and warm for a minute or two. Stir in the lemon zest, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in shallow bowls, warning guests about the olive pits.
ALTERNATIVE CUTS:
- Cuts from the veal leg, such as top or bottom round
- Boneless veal shoulder
- Osso buco (veal shanks cut into 2- to 3-inch rounds; increase the cooking time to 2 to 3 hours and use 4 pounds of shanks)
- A whole veal shank is good as well.
COOK’S NOTE:
- I like to serve this ragu with soft polenta, steamed couscous, brown rice, or orzo.
