FROM LITTLE RIVER DOWN TO GEORGETOWN, SOUTH Carolina, fishermen keep roadside markets stocked
with the freshest, fattest, most beautiful white shrimp imaginable, and I must have visited every one while nesting in our cottage at Ocean Drive Beach. “With or without the heads?” is the first question most of the old salts ask before quoting prices, and if they don’t ask, I’m immediately apprehensive about the freshness of the haul. Given the abundance of shrimp right out of the water (lots of which, unfortunately, is shipped north to fetch outrageous prices), I’m always coming up with new ways to prepare it, but friends still talk about this particular salad I created for lunch one sweltering day after an early-morning excursion to buy shrimp down at one market I favor in Garden City. One secret is the dill pickles.

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 2 cups diced streak-o’-lean cooking meat (lean salt pork)
• 2 pounds medium fresh shrimp
• 1⁄2 lemon, seeded
• 21⁄2 cups cooked green peas
• 2 small dill pickles, diced
• 1 cup mayonnaise
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 3 tablespoons heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon prepared horseradish
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Curly endive (chicory) leaves
• 2 medium tomatoes, quartered
• 3 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a large, heavy skillet, render the diced cooking meat over moderate heat till crisp and golden brown, about 20 minutes. Watch carefully and reduce the heat if the fat threatens to burn. Drain the cracklin’s on paper towels and set aside.
2. Place the shrimp in a large saucepan with enough salted water to cover. Squeeze the lemon into the water, then toss it in. Bring to a boil, then remove from the heat and let it sit for 1 minute. Drain the shrimp and discard the lemon.
3. When the shrimp are cool enough to handle, shell and devein them. Place them in a large mixing bowl.
4. Add the cooked green peas and diced pickles to the shrimp. Mix well and chill the mixture for 1 hour, covered with plastic wrap.
5. In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, lemon juice, cream, horseradish, salt, and pepper.
6. Add the mayonnaise mixture to the shrimp mixture and toss well to combine.
7. Line a large salad bowl with the curly endive leaves.
8. Mound the shrimp salad in the middle of the bowl.
9. Sprinkle the top with the reserved cracklin’s.
10. Garnish with the quartered tomatoes and hard-boiled eggs.