WHEN I TOLD SAVANNAH FOOD EXPERT DAMON LEE Fowler that I was putting a little gin in my shrimp
paste, he simply frowned. When I told Charleston’s major authority on Lowcountry cookery, “Hoppin’ John”
Martin Taylor, he raged, “Have you gone stark raving mad?” Heaven knows what either would say if I shared my conviction that shrimp paste might be traced back to English potted shrimps! In any case, on tea tables, at formal buffets and cocktail parties, and even for breakfast, shrimp paste has to be one of the most distinctive and sublime regional creations ever devised. The spread, made locally with tiny, sweet inlet shrimp, has been around for centuries, and while it does lend itself to different seasonings, modern versions that include everything from cream cheese to mayonnaise to canned soups should be outlawed. Serve the paste on benne (sesame) crackers or toast points.

Makes about 2 cups

INGREDIENTS

• 1 1⁄2 pounds fresh shrimp
• 1⁄2 lemon
• 3 tablespoons gin
• 1 tablespoon minced scallions (white parts only)
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1⁄4 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1⁄8 teaspoon ground mace or nutmeg
• Pinch of cayenne pepper
• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, softened
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Chopped fresh parsley leaves

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Place the shrimp and lemon in a large saucepan with enough water to cover.
2. Bring the saucepan to a boil.
3. Remove the saucepan from the heat and let it stand for 1 minute.
4. Drain the shrimp.
5. When the shrimp are cool enough to handle, peel, devein, and cut them in half.
6. In a blender or food processor, combine the boiled shrimp, gin, minced scallion, lemon juice, dry mustard, ground mace or nutmeg, and cayenne pepper.
7. Process the mixture just long enough to chop the shrimp coarsely.
8. Transfer the mixture to a large mixing bowl.
9. Add the softened butter, salt, and freshly ground black pepper to the bowl.
10. Mix the ingredients with a wooden spoon till the shrimp mixture and butter are well blended.
11. Pack the mixture into a crock.
12. Cover the crock with plastic wrap.
13. Chill the mixture in the crock for at least 2 hours.
14. When ready to serve, sprinkle chopped parsley over the top.