I’VE ALWAYS SAID THAT DEVILED CRAB CAN BE THE worst or most delicious Southern dish imaginable, depending on the quality of the crabmeat, the amount of breading (filler), and whether the texture is inexcusably
dry or sumptuously moist. What I’ve found distinguishes the best Savannah, Georgia, deviled crab from most you
find along the Carolina, Florida, and Gulf coasts is not only the use of freshly steamed whole blue crabs but also the very sensible addition of cream to the mixture. If only commercially packed fresh crabmeat is practical, opt for the claw meat over the backfin lump; it may be more difficult to pick over for shells but it’s moister, sweeter, and much less expensive. Serious Savannah cooks pack their mixtures into crab backs to preserve as much moisture and sweetness as possible, but scallop shells or small ramekins work just as well, so long as you don’t overbake. Wrapped tightly in aluminum foil, the packed shells can be frozen and reheated when ready to serve.

Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) butter
• 1⁄3 cup minced Vidalia onion
• 1⁄2 cup heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons sweet sherry
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh chives
• 1⁄2 teaspoon minced hot chile pepper
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1⁄2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1⁄2 pound fresh claw crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
• 2 large egg yolks, lightly beaten
• 1⁄4 cup dry bread crumbs

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2. In a medium skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat.
3. Add the minced Vidalia onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes.
4. Stir in the heavy cream, sweet sherry, minced chives, minced hot chile pepper, dry mustard, Worcestershire sauce, salt, and pepper.
5. Cook the mixture, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes.
6. Stir in the fresh claw crabmeat, then remove the skillet from the heat.
7. Add the lightly beaten egg yolks to the mixture and stir until well incorporated.
8. Divide the mixture among four buttered scallop shells or small ramekins.
9. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of bread crumbs on top of each serving.
10. Dot each serving with pieces of the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter.
11. Bake the crabmeat mixture in the preheated oven until the bread crumbs are golden and the mixture is bubbling, which should take about 10 minutes.
12. Serve the crabmeat mixture hot.