FOR AS LONG AS I CAN REMEMBER, CRABMEAT au gratin has been considered the quintessential “fussy” appetizer in upscale restaurants, gracious homes, and country clubs throughout the South (despite there not being one thing fussy about the dish). I readily admit that I could eat it every day of my life. Normally, I use only aged, extra-sharp cheddar cheese in cooking, but not for crabmeat au gratin since it overwhelms the crabmeat. Likewise with the sherry, which adds sensual depth, so long as it’s used discreetly. This is a rich appetizer, so plan your meal
accordingly.

Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 1 cup half-and-half
• 1 cup grated mild cheddar cheese
• 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tablespoon dry sherry
• 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons butter, softened
• 3⁄4 pound fresh lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage and flaked
• 1⁄2 cup dry bread crumbs
• 2 tablespoons melted butter

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a heavy saucepan, combine the half-and-half, grated cheddar cheese, Worcestershire sauce, sherry, Tabasco sauce, salt, and pepper.
2. Bring the mixture to a simmer over moderate heat, stirring until the cheese is melted and well incorporated.
3. In a small bowl, knead together the flour and softened butter until a paste forms.
4. Whisk the flour and butter paste into the cream mixture by bits until thickened.
5. Add the flaked crabmeat to the mixture and stir until the mixture is hot.
6. Preheat the oven broiler and butter four 1⁄2-cup ramekins.
7. Spoon equal amounts of the crabmeat mixture into each of the four ramekins.
8. Lightly sprinkle bread crumbs over the top of each ramekin.
9. Drizzle melted butter over the bread crumbs.
10. Place the ramekins on a heavy baking sheet and position them about 3 inches from the broiler heat.
11. Run the ramekins under the broiler until the tops are just golden, which should take about 1 minute.
12. Serve the crabmeat mixture hot.