IN THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY, WHEN BALTIMORE boasted more than two dozen breweries, it became a
practice in the city’s bars to offer free oysters to anyone ordering local beer. Usually, they were simply on the
half shell, but as the tradition developed and competition for business heated up, some bars came up with novel ways to serve the oysters that would attract customers. I like to think that this is the way the blissful marriage of oysters and bacon was first conceived. Do be careful not to overcook the oysters, which toughens them.

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 6 slices lean bacon, cut in half crosswise
• 4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) butter
• 11⁄2 pints fresh shucked oysters, drained and 1 cup of liquor reserved
• 11⁄2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon prepared horseradish
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Toast points

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a medium skillet, fry the bacon over moderate heat until crisp.
2. Drain the bacon on paper towels, crumble it, and set it aside.
3. Drain all but about 1 tablespoon of grease from the skillet.
4. Melt the butter in the remaining grease.
5. Add the oysters to the skillet and sauté them for about 1 minute on each side or until the edges begin to curl.
6. Transfer the sautéed oysters to a plate.
7. Add the all-purpose flour to the skillet and cook over moderate heat for 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
8. Add the reserved oyster liquor, prepared horseradish, salt, and pepper to the skillet.
9. Cook the mixture, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens, which should take about 3 minutes.
10. Remove the skillet from the heat.
11. Add the sautéed oysters to the skillet and heat them well in the sauce.
12. To serve, arrange the oysters on toast points.
13. Spoon a little sauce over each oyster.
14. Top each serving with sprinklings of crumbled bacon.