ALTHOUGH THIS IS NOT TECHNICALLY A REAL MOUSSE, that’s what the wife of a country ham producer in
Clinton, Kentucky, called the glistening crock resting in her refrigerator. “There’s not much to do with the hard ends and fatty pieces of a ham except grind them up and use them in some type of spread,” she informed us as we took a knife to the concoction. “And this mousse holds up any day to a good sippin’ bourbon on the rocks.” Right she was, and while I’m sure she would have frowned upon my discreet addition of Madeira to the recipe, I do think the wine gives the mousse an almost elegant touch. Southerners love any molded dish—savory or sweet—and this one would enhance any cocktail buffet.

Makes about 5 cups

INGREDIENTS

• 4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) butter
• 1⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 cup milk, heated
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 1⁄4 teaspoon powdered sage
• Cayenne pepper to taste
• 1⁄4 cup Madeira
• 2 large egg yolks
• 1⁄2 cup heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin
• 1⁄2 cup chicken broth
• 1 pound country ham, trimmed of fat and cut into chunks
• Watercress for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a heavy saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat.
2. Add the flour and whisk the roux for 1 minute.
3. Gradually add the heated milk while reducing the heat to low.
4. Whisk the mixture until it becomes very thick.
5. Add the Dijon mustard, powdered sage, cayenne pepper, and Madeira.
6. Stir the mixture until everything is well blended.
7. In a small bowl, combine the egg yolks and heavy cream.
8. Whisk the mixture until well blended.
9. Stir in a little of the hot sauce into the egg yolk and cream mixture.
10. Return the mixture to the hot sauce in the saucepan.
11. Continue cooking over low heat, whisking, until the mixture thickens.
12. In another small bowl, soften the gelatin in the chicken broth for 5 minutes.
13. Stir the gelatin mixture into the hot sauce.
14. Place the ham into a meat grinder or food processor and grind it finely.
15. Stir the ground ham into the sauce.
16. Pour the mixture into a 1-quart mold and cover it with plastic wrap.
17. Chill the mold in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours.
18. Unmold the mousse on a large serving dish.
19. Garnish the edges with watercress.
20. Serve with rectangles of toast.