EVEN BEFORE THE WESTERN PART OF VIRGINIA
broke away from the state in 1861 to form a separate Union government, frontier settlers, who depended heavily on wild game for survival, organized church and civic get-togethers called “soups” or “stews,” where everybody contributed some corn, potatoes, onions, and various meats to a huge stew pot. Today, in the mountain regions dotted with isolated cabins and low income housing, small communities continue to celebrate wild game, huckleberry, maple sugar, and pumpkin seasons by throwing a festive “soup” or “stew,” and in the most remote areas of the state (as in the mountains of North Carolina and Tennessee), it’s not unusual to see a little illegal moonshine being poured.

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Cayenne pepper to taste
• 2 pounds boneless venison shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 11⁄2-inch pieces
• 4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) butter
• 1 cup sweet vermouth
• 2 tablespoons red currant jelly
• 2 celery ribs (leaves included), chopped
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled
• 1 bay leaf
• 3 cloves
• 2 cups beef broth
• 12 tiny new potatoes, scrubbed but not peeled
• 6 small white onions, peeled and scored on the root ends
• 3 medium carrots, scraped and cut into rounds
• 2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a bowl, combine the flour, salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper.
2. Dredge the venison in the flour mixture, tapping off any excess.
3. In a large, heavy pot, melt the butter over moderately high heat.
4. Add the venison to the pot and brown it on all sides.
5. Add the sweet vermouth and red currant jelly to the pot and stir well, scraping any browned bits off the bottom.
6. Add the chopped celery, dried thyme, dried rosemary, bay leaf, cloves, and beef broth to the pot.
7. Reduce the heat to a low simmer, cover the pot, and cook for 1 hour.
8. Add the tiny new potatoes, peeled onions, carrots, parsnips, and salt and pepper to taste.
9. Return the pot to a simmer, cover, and continue cooking until the venison is very tender, about 1 hour longer.
10. If necessary, add more beef broth during cooking to maintain desired consistency.
11. Serve the stew hot.