WHILE LIVING IN MISSOURI, I ATE MY FIRST ARKANSAS
catfish stew when I visited a friend one weekend at his family’s home in Carson. What I remember most was that the stew was cooked outdoors in a heavy washtub—evidently an old tradition in towns all along the Mississippi River. I also recall that the catfish were the most gigantic I’d ever seen—maybe ten pounds each—and that the stew itself was probably the best I’d ever tasted. Yes, I know that Mississippi is now the leading producer of catfish in the nation, thanks to modernized fish farms and processing methods throughout its Delta region, but after all, pond cultivation began in Arkansas back in the 1950s, and well, the memory of that delicious washtub stew made with wild, huge, ugly, bottom-feeding river catfish lingers. This recipe is tame compared with the stew I was served, so if you want to give it real character, buy a large, whole, hideous fish and use the head, tail, and bones to make a rich catfish stock to replace all or part of the water.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 5 slices meaty bacon, cut into tiny cubes
• 2 medium onions, finely chopped
• 3 medium ripe tomatoes, chopped, with the juice retained
• 2 large potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 2 cups water (or, preferably, catfish stock)
• 1⁄4 teaspoon ground cloves
• 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• Tabasco sauce to taste
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 pounds catfish fillets, cut into 11⁄2-inch pieces

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a large, heavy pot, fry the bacon over moderate heat until crisp.
2. Drain the bacon on paper towels and set aside.
3. Add the onions to the pot and cook, stirring, until very soft, about 4 minutes.
4. Add the tomatoes, potatoes, water (or catfish stock), cloves, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce, salt, and pepper to the pot.
5. Bring the mixture to a boil.
6. Reduce the heat to a low simmer, cover the pot, and cook for 30 minutes.
7. Add the catfish and reserved bacon to the pot, stir gently to combine.
8. Cover the pot and continue to simmer until the fish flakes, about 10 to 12 minutes.
9. Serve the stew hot.