ALTHOUGH SOUTHERN BUTTER BEANS ARE
technically a variety of lima beans (native to the Americas), make no mistake that the appearance and flavor of the two are distinctly different. Speckled butter beans (or “specs”), in particular, with their white skins dotted with red and purple, are the most popular type, turning a beautiful copper color and boasting dense richness when simmered slowly, as in this lusty stew. Unfortunately, real butter beans are becoming more and more difficult to find in all but the most rural areas, still another example of a unique Southern staple falling victim to modern marketing practices and public apathy. Fresh or frozen Fordhook limas can be substituted in this stew, but if you do see speckled butter beans at farm stands during the summer months, grab them. And for heaven’s sake, when you bake a smoked ham (shank portion), be sure to saw off and freeze the hock.

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 3 ounces streak-o’-lean (lean salt pork), cut into small pieces
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 celery rib, chopped
• 1⁄2 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 large ripe tomatoes, chopped, with the juices retained
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 6 meaty smoked ham hocks, trimmed of skin
• 5 cups water
• 1 pound fresh or frozen butter beans (or Fordhook lima beans)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a large, heavy pot, fry the streak-o’-lean over moderate heat till crisp.
2. Drain the streak-o’-lean on paper towels and reserve.
3. Add the onion, celery, bell pepper, and garlic to the pot and cook, stirring, till softened, about 3 minutes.
4. Add the tomatoes and their juice, the thyme, sage, mustard, salt, and pepper to the pot and stir well.
5. Add the ham hocks and water to the pot, bring to a boil, and skim any froth from the top.
6. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook for about 2 hours.
7. Add the reserved streak-o’-lean and the beans to the pot, return to a simmer, and cook for about 30 minutes longer.
8. With a slotted spoon, transfer the ham hocks to a large platter.
9. Arrange the beans around the ham hocks.