“RUTH, HONEY,” BAWLS “HOPPIN’ JOHN” MARTIN Taylor over the phone to Ruth Fales at the Pinckney Cafe in Charleston, South Carolina. “I’m sending two hungry friends over for pamenuh cheese sandwiches, so pile it on heavy.” Of course, every Southerner thinks he or she knows what constitutes perfect pimento cheese, and even the few non-Southerners who know what the spread is can have a very resolute idea of how it should be made. In the South, PC is used for sandwiches, turned into dips and festive balls, and incorporated in burgers and breads, but never is it more popular than when spread on crackers or stuffed into celery for cocktail parties. While self-styled experts add everything to it from minced onion, garlic, hot peppers, and olives to horseradish and Tabasco, I say there’s still nothing like the simple, classic PC that I make at least once a week and keep in the refrigerator. Without
question, it’s the most distinctive and sensual of all Southern spreads.

Makes about 3 cups

INGREDIENTS

• 1⁄2 pound extra-sharp white Vermont cheddar cheese
• 1⁄2 pound extra-sharp New York State cheddar cheese
• One 7-ounce jar pimentos, drained
• 1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• Salt to taste
• Cayenne pepper to taste
• 2⁄3 cup mayonnaise

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Finely grate the two cheeses into a mixing bowl.
2. On a plate, mash the pimentos well with a fork till they’re very pulpy.
3. Add the mashed pimentos to the cheeses.
4. Add the freshly ground black pepper, salt, and cayenne pepper to the mixture.
5. Mix the ingredients till well blended.
6. Using a fork, fold in the mayonnaise.
7. Continue mashing and mixing till the spread is smooth.
8. Add a little more mayonnaise if the spread appears too dry.
9. Scrape the spread into a jar or crock.
10. Cover the jar or crock well.
11. Refrigerate the spread for at least 2 hours before serving.
12. Serve with crackers or use to make pimento cheese finger sandwiches.
13. The spread can be kept tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.