WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Roasting cauliflower is a great way to caramelize its sugars and transform this mild vegetable into something sweet and nutty-tasting. We wanted to create a stovetop method that would deliver oven results in a faster time frame. Heating oil and adding florets resulted in the craggy exteriors browning before the interiors softened. Adding water to the pan to soften the florets resulted in anemic, bland cauliflower. But starting the oil and cauliflower together in a cold pan, first covered, then uncovered, resulted in caramelized, tender florets. A combination of sautéed garlic and lemon zest, plus fresh chopped parsley, perked up the flavors. With a sprinkle of crunchy toasted bread crumbs, our newfangled skillet-roasted cauliflower was complete. You will need a 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe.

Serves 4 to 6

Total time: 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS

• 1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, torn into 1-inch pieces
• 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper
• 1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into 1½-inch florets
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving
• ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

PREPARATIONS

1. Pulse bread in food processor to coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses.
2. Heat bread crumbs, 1 tablespoon oil, pinch salt, and pinch pepper in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until bread crumbs are golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer crumbs to bowl and wipe out skillet.
3. Combine 2 tablespoons oil and cauliflower florets in now-empty skillet and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Cover skillet and cook over medium-high heat until florets start to brown and edges just start to become translucent (do not lift lid during this time), about 5 minutes.
4. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 12 minutes.
5. Push florets to edges of skillet. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil, garlic, and lemon zest to center and cook, stirring with rubber spatula, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
6. Stir garlic mixture into florets and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until florets are tender but still firm, about 3 minutes.
7. Remove skillet from heat and stir in parsley.
8. Transfer florets to serving platter and sprinkle with bread crumbs.
9. Serve, passing lemon wedges separately.

VARIATIONS

• PAN-ROASTED CAULIFLOWER WITH CAPERS AND PINE NUTS:
  Omit bread and reduce oil to ¼ cup. Reduce salt in step 2 to ¾ teaspoon. Substitute 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and minced, for garlic. Substitute 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives for parsley and stir in ¼ cup toasted pine nuts with chives in step 5.

• PAN-ROASTED CAULIFLOWER WITH CUMIN AND PISTACHIOS:
  Omit bread and reduce oil to ¼ cup. Heat 1 teaspoon cumin seeds and 1 teaspoon coriander seeds in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until lightly toasted and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to spice grinder or mortar and pestle and coarsely grind. Wipe out skillet. Substitute ground cumin-coriander mixture, ½ teaspoon paprika, and pinch cayenne pepper for garlic; lime zest for lemon zest; and 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint for parsley. Sprinkle with ¼ cup pistachios, toasted and chopped, before serving with lime wedges.