Unless you’ve purchased heritage-breed pork bred for lard production, pasture-raised pork tends toward leanness because the animals enjoy free and unfettered access to the outdoors, where they can stretch their legs, run, root around, and exercise. Slowly braising pork in milk helps to reintroduce moisture into the meat while further complementing the pork’s inherent sweetness. I like the balance that black pepper and sweet bay bring to that sweetness.

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

• 1 pork tenderloin (about 2 pounds), trimmed of silver skin or sinew
• 2 teaspoons finely ground unrefined sea salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons lard
• 2 cups whole milk
• 2 bay leaves

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Sprinkle the tenderloin with the salt and pepper.
2. Melt the lard over medium-high heat in a heavy pot just wide enough to hold the tenderloin.
3. Place the tenderloin in the hot fat and sear it for 4 to 5 minutes on each side.
4. Decrease the temperature to medium-low, pour in the milk, and drop in the bay leaves.
5. Cover the pot and simmer the tenderloin for 1½ to 2 hours, or until fork-tender. Turn the tenderloin occasionally to ensure it cooks evenly and remains uniformly moist.
6. Transfer the tenderloin to a cutting board and tent it with parchment paper or foil to keep it warm.
7. Increase the heat under the pot to high and reduce the milk by half, until it forms a thick, creamy sauce.
8. Remove the bay leaves.
9. Slice the pork no thicker than ¼ inch thick and serve it topped with the sauce.