These burgers were inspired by the submarine, or hero, sandwiches served up in Italian delis, with a beef patty replacing the traditional cold cuts. There’s no need to serve the sandwich piping hot: mildly warm is my favorite, or you can let it cool to room temperature. For a large gathering (think Super Bowl party), make a giant sub using an entire loaf of French or Italian bread (l½ to 2 feet long is perfect). Then cut the loaf into sections, figuring 4 to 6 servings per loaf. Don’t bother to toast the whole loaf, but be sure to buy really fresh bread baked the same day.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

• ¼ pound pancetta, diced
• 1¼ pounds ground beef (80% lean), home-ground or store-bought
• ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 teaspoons ground fennel seeds
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 4 ⅛-inch-thick slices fontina or provolone cheese, large enough to cover the burger patties
• 4 6-inch Italian or sourdough rolls, split
• Strips of bottled fire-roasted red bell peppers or other sweet peppers
• Shredded lettuce
• Peperoncini, stems removed (optional)
• Thinly sliced sweet onion (optional)
• ¼ cup olive oil
• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 1 teaspoon dried basil or 2 teaspoons chopped fresh

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Set up a charcoal or gas grill for medium-high heat.
2. Burgers: Pulse the pancetta in a food processor until finely ground; don’t puree. Using a fork, lightly toss the pancetta with the ground beef, Parmigiano-Reggiano, minced garlic, salt, black pepper, and ground fennel seeds in a medium bowl until well mixed; don’t overmix. Form the meat mixture into 4 oval patties, ¾ inch thick.
3. Lightly oil the grill rack. Grill the burgers for 3 to 4 minutes. Flip and grill for 2 to 3 minutes more for medium-rare to medium, 125°F to 135°F. Place a slice of cheese on top of each burger, cover the grill, and cook for 2 minutes more, or until the cheese is melted.
4. While the burgers are grilling, toast the rolls. Whisk together the olive oil, red wine vinegar, and basil and brush the dressing on the cut surfaces of the rolls.
5. Place the burgers on the bottom halves of the rolls and cover with the fire-roasted peppers and lettuce. Place some peperoncini and onions (if using) over the lettuce and close the sandwiches. Cut in half and serve immediately.

ALTERNATIVE CUTS

• Ground pork or a mixture of one half beef, one quarter pork, and one quarter veal.

COOK’S NOTE

• If serving the burgers at room temperature, cook to a final temperature of 130°F to 140°F for medium-rare to medium and just layer the cheese over the meat instead of melting it.