The cooking of Calabria in southern Italy can be quite spicy, relying on both fresh and dried chiles for flavor and heat. The amount of red pepper flakes in this recipe produces burgers of only moderate heat. If you like more chile flavor and heat in your food, increase the pepper flakes in ½4-teaspoon increments, using up to 2 teaspoons. For the accompanying mayonnaise, you can add Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce to suit your taste. If you like your burgers cooked beyond medium be sure to purchase fattier meat (80% lean).

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

BURGERS

• 1½ pounds ground beef (80% to 85% lean), home-ground or store-bought
• ½ cup finely chopped red or sweet onion
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped capers
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
• 2 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or more to taste

SUN-DRIED TOMATO MAYONNAISE

• 4 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained
• 2 teaspoons drained capers
• ½ cup mayonnaise
• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano
• A few drops of Tabasco or other hot sauce (optional)

OLIVE-TOMATO GARNISH

• 3 ripe tomatoes, diced
• 2 tablespoons chopped pitted Italian green olives
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped sweet onion
• Pinch of salt
• 4 ¼-inch-thick slices mozzarella or Monterey Jack cheese
• 4 ciabatta rolls or large French or Italian rolls, split and toasted

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Set up a charcoal or gas grill for medium-high heat.
2. Burgers: Using a fork, lightly toss the meat with the remaining ingredients in a medium bowl until well mixed; don’t overmix. Shape the beef mixture into 4 oval patties, ¾ to 1 inch thick.
3. Mayonnaise: With the motor running, drop the tomatoes and capers through the feed tube of a food processor and process until chopped. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and pulse several times to blend. Set aside.
4. Garnish: Stir together all the ingredients in a medium bowl. Set aside.
5. Lightly oil the grill rack. Grill the burgers for 3 to 4 minutes per side, or until just firm to the touch. Top with the mozzarella, cover the grill, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes more, or until the cheese is melted. This will yield medium-rare to medium burgers.
6. Slather both sides of the rolls with the mayonnaise and place a burger on the bottom half of each one. Top with the Olive-Tomato Garnish, close the sandwiches, cut in half, and serve immediately.

ALTERNATIVE CUTS

• Grass-fed beef
• Ground bison
• Ground goat or lamb, or a combination.

COOK’S NOTE

• You can also use these burgers for Italian Burger Subs.