WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a creamy cauliflower soup without cream, we relied on cauliflower’s low insoluble fiber content to produce a velvety smooth puree. To ensure that the cauliflower flavor remained at the forefront, we cooked the cauliflower in seasoned water (instead of broth), skipped the spice rack entirely, and bolstered the soup with sautéed onion and leek. We added the cauliflower to the simmering water in two stages so that we got the grassy flavor of just-cooked cauliflower and the sweeter, nuttier flavor of long-cooked cauliflower. Finally, we fried florets in butter until both browned and used each as a separate, richly flavored garnish. White wine vinegar may be substituted for the sherry vinegar. Be sure to thoroughly trim the cauliflower’s core of green leaves and leaf stems, which can be fibrous and contribute to a grainy texture in the soup.

Serves 4 to 6

Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes

INGREDIENTS

• 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
• 1 leek, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced thin, and washed thoroughly
• 1 small onion, halved and sliced thin
• Salt and pepper
• 4½–5 cups water
• 1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into 1 cup ½-inch florets, remaining head sliced into ½-inch-thick slabs, core sliced thin
• ½ teaspoon sherry vinegar
• 3 tablespoons minced fresh chives

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add leek, onion, and 1½ teaspoons salt; cook, stirring frequently, until leek and onion are softened but not browned, about 7 minutes.
2. Increase heat to medium-high; add 4½ cups water, sliced cauliflower core, and half of cauliflower slabs; and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Add remaining cauliflower slabs, return to simmer, and continue to cook until cauliflower is tender and crumbles easily, 15 to 20 minutes.
3. While soup simmers, melt remaining 5 tablespoons butter in 8-inch skillet over medium heat. Add cauliflower florets and cook, stirring frequently, until florets are golden and butter is browned and imparts nutty aroma, 6 to 8 minutes. Off heat, use slotted spoon to transfer florets to small bowl. Toss florets with vinegar and season with salt to taste. Set browned butter in skillet aside for garnishing.
4. Process soup in blender until smooth, about 45 seconds. Rinse out saucepan. Return pureed soup to saucepan and return to simmer over medium heat, adjusting consistency with remaining water as needed and seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.
5. Serve, garnishing individual serving bowls with browned florets, drizzle of browned butter, and chives.