THERE’S NOT A SERIOUS COOK IN THE SOUTH who doesn’t have his or her special version of okra and tomato soup. Craig Claiborne used to add a little country ham to his Mississippi variation; Louis Osteen at Louis’s in Pawleys Island, South Carolina, makes his with rice, bell peppers, and chile peppers; the chef at Woodfire Grill in Atlanta almost transforms the soup into a stew by including fresh corn and shrimp; and my own mother would never dream of preparing hers without both a marrow bone and diced beef. I make this soup only in the summer, when small, tender, fresh okra and homegrown tomatoes are available—hardly a sacrifice since the soup can be made in quantity and frozen very successfully in individual containers for the winter.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 1 soup bone
• One 1 1⁄2-pound piece boneless beef chuck, trimmed of excess fat and cut into chunks
• 2 medium onions, chopped
• 2 celery ribs (leaves included), chopped
• 1 bay leaf
• 6 cups water
• 3 large ripe tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 1 1⁄2 pounds fresh okra (stems removed), sliced
• 1⁄2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a large, heavy pot, combine the soup bone, beef, onions, celery, and bay leaf.
2. Add the water to the pot and bring it to a boil.
3. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the beef is tender, about 2 hours.
4. Transfer the beef to a cutting board and cut it into small dice. Set it aside.
5. Discard the soup bone.
6. Strain the liquid in the pot to remove the solids.
7. Skim the fat from the liquid and rinse out the pot.
8. Return the strained liquid to the pot.
9. Add the diced beef, tomatoes, okra, Worcestershire sauce, and salt and pepper to the pot.
10. Return the soup to a simmer and cook for about 1 hour.
11. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
12. Serve the soup very hot in soup bowls.