MAKE NO MISTAKE ABOUT IT, DESPITE GEORGIA’S reputation as the peanut (and pecan) capital of the
universe, the nuts there cannot hold a candle to the large, oily, succulent, noble goobers grown in Virginia. (I order a steady supply of 2-pound bags from Original Nut House, in Wakefield, Virginia: 1-800-913-6642.) In 1794,
Thomas Jefferson’s garden included no fewer than sixty five peanut hills, and during Colonial times in Virginia, peanut soup was already considered one of the most elegant dishes served at the most refined dinners. Of course, every area of the state has its special version of the soup, and while nothing can be more soothing or delectable than a creamy peanut soup, this type based on chicken broth and a touch of tomato sauce, and found in many of the historic restaurants of Colonial Williamsburg, is hard to beat. As for the sacrilege of using peanut butter instead of freshly ground peanuts in the soup, “that’s the sort of crazy thing those folks down in the Carolinas and Georgia would do,” one waitress huffed.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 2 cups roasted Virginia peanuts
• 6 cups chicken broth
• 3 tablespoons peanut oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 2 celery ribs (including leaves), chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour mixed with 2 tablespoons cold water, stirred into a paste
• 1 tablespoon canned tomato sauce
• 1⁄2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 5 drops Tabasco sauce
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a blender or food processor, combine 1 cup of the peanuts with 1 cup of the broth and blend until a purée forms.
2. Add the remaining peanuts and another cup of broth to the blender or food processor. Blend again until very smooth.
3. Strain the peanut mixture through a fine sieve into a bowl and set it aside.
4. In a medium skillet, heat the peanut oil over moderately low heat.
5. Add the chopped onion, celery, and garlic to the skillet and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes.
6. Transfer the cooked vegetables to the blender or food processor.
7. Add another cup of broth to the blender or food processor and blend until a purée forms.
8. Scrape the vegetable purée into a large, heavy saucepan over moderate heat.
9. Add the flour paste to the vegetable purée and stir. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring continuously.
10. Add the remaining 3 cups of broth, the strained peanut mixture, tomato sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and Tabasco sauce to the saucepan.
11. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
12. Stir well and continue to cook until the soup is velvety smooth, about 5 minutes.