OF THE MORE EXOTIC SOUTHERN COLESLAWS SERVED with fried chicken and seafood, this is my favorite—at
least for the time being. Curiously, it was inspired by a slaw I found one day in Chattanooga when a friend and I stormed out of a pretentious restaurant that was serving a putative Creole gumbo flavored with lemongrass and ended up at a deli down the street. I’ve also seen versions of this slaw in upscale cafeterias, and, actually, lots of Southerners like to flavor their plain, ordinary coleslaw with just a suggestion of crushed pineapple.

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• One 15-ounce can crushed pineapple, drained, with 1⁄3 cup juice reserved
• 1⁄4 cup peanut oil
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 1⁄2 teaspoon celery seed
• 1⁄2 teaspoon grated orange zest
• 1⁄4 teaspoon dry mustard
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• One small, firm green cabbage head (about 1 pound)
• 2 ounces seedless golden raisins

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a bowl, combine the reserved pineapple juice, peanut oil, balsamic vinegar, celery seed, grated orange zest, dry mustard, salt, and freshly ground black pepper.
2. Whisk the dressing ingredients until well blended and smooth. Set aside.
3. Remove and discard the outer leaves of the cabbage.
4. Cut the cabbage head into quarters.
5. Cut out and discard the hard center core of the cabbage.
6. Shred the cabbage quarters into a large bowl.
7. Add the crushed pineapple and seedless golden raisins to the shredded cabbage.
8. Toss the cabbage, pineapple, and raisins until well blended.
9. Pour the dressing over the cabbage mixture.
10. Toss the ingredients until well blended and coated with the dressing.
11. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and chill the coleslaw for at least 1 hour before serving.