A RECENT BOOK ON COLESLAW (ALWAYS ONE WORD IN the South) informs us that no less than 61 percent of all coleslaw recipes in the United States are Southern; that 41 percent of the population prepare coleslaw year round; and that the salad is most often eaten with barbecue and fried chicken or fish. Without question, the major ingredient in most Southern coleslaw is shredded (not chopped, not grated) green cabbage, and the key dressings are based either on mayonnaise or vinegar. After that, the sky’s the limit on what is found in coleslaws: carrots, onions, olives, poppy seeds, raisins, apples, curry powder, pineapple, sour cream, lemon juice, and Lord knows what else. I guess I’ve tasted them all (some superlative, some ordinary, some wretched), but this buttermilk version is hard to beat, both as a side dish and as a topping on pork barbecue sandwiches, hot dogs, and the like.

Makes 8 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 1 medium, firm green cabbage (about 1 1⁄2 pounds)
• 1 large carrot, scraped
• 1 small onion
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon celery seed
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1⁄2 cup mayonnaise
• 1⁄2 cup buttermilk
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon cider vinegar

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Remove and discard the loose outer leaves of the cabbage.
2. Cut the cabbage head into quarters.
3. Cut out and discard the hard center core of the cabbage.
4. Shred the cabbage quarters into a large bowl.
5. Shred the carrot into the same bowl.
6. Shred the onion into the bowl and mix well with the cabbage and carrot.
7. In a small bowl, combine the remaining ingredients: sugar, celery seed, salt, black pepper, mayonnaise, buttermilk, fresh lemon juice, and cider vinegar.
8. Mix the dressing ingredients until well blended and smooth.
9. Pour the dressing over the cabbage mixture in the large bowl.
10. Toss the cabbage mixture with the dressing until well blended.
11. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and chill the coleslaw for about 2 hours before serving.
12. The coleslaw can be kept for about 5 days, but it may become watery after 2 days. If necessary, drain excess liquid before serving.