NO, I WAS NOT REARED EATING BRAINS AND EGGS in North Carolina, but my mother was, as well as a friend
who grew up outside Pine Bluff, Arkansas. My earliest memory of the dish is of the strong hog’s brains my grandmother Maw Maw used to scramble with eggs, and it was only later, when another relative made the dish with milder, more delicate calves’ brains, that I became hooked. At one time, brains were considered a great delicacy in the South (as in France), and since I’ve noticed recently more and more frozen ones in the better markets, I can only assume they’re making a comeback with adventuresome home and professional cooks. The combination of brains and eggs produces a rich, subtle, distinctive flavor that makes the dish perfect for brunches. Just don’t forget that all brains are fragile and highly perishable and must be cooked within 24 hours. Remember, also, that if brains are unavailable calf sweetbreads make a very acceptable substitution.

Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 1 pound calf brains (fresh or frozen and thawed)
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon bacon grease
• 1 cup water
• 1 teaspoon salt
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 6 tablespoons (3⁄4 stick) butter, cut into pieces
• 8 large eggs, beaten

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Rinse the calf brains carefully under cold water and place them in a bowl.
2. Add enough water to cover the brains, along with the lemon juice. Let the brains soak in the refrigerator for about 2 hours.
3. Drain the brains and remove as much of the thin outer membrane as possible. Pat the brains dry with paper towels.
4. In a large skillet, heat the bacon grease over moderately low heat.
5. Add the prepared brains, water, salt, and pepper to the skillet.
6. Simmer the brains, uncovered, until the water has evaporated, which takes about 20 minutes.
7. Remove the skillet from the heat.
8. When ready to serve, add the butter to the skillet and let it melt around the brains.
9. Add the beaten eggs to the skillet and stir gently to scramble the eggs with the brains.
10. Cook the eggs over low heat just until they are set and still slightly soft.
11. Transfer the scrambled eggs with brains to a warm bowl.
12. Serve immediately.