AT DINERS, CAFETERIAS, AND SIMPLE ROADSIDE CAFÉS throughout Tennessee, Kentucky, and the Deep South, I’ve eaten all sorts of egg and cheese dishes—since, to tell the truth, breakfast is and always has been my
favorite meal of the day (and I’m not talking about bread and coffee but eggs, bacon or sausage or country ham, fresh fruit, homemade preserves, etc.). Never once, however, have I encountered anything even resembling this smooth, full-flavored, slightly tangy, almost elegant concoction that my maternal grandfather used to make in Macon, Georgia, and that today my mother and I both serve in a silver chafing dish at weekend breakfasts and brunches. For the dish to work perfectly, you absolutely must use the very finest, extra-sharp, aged cheddar you can find (I prefer
a premium Vermont or Canadian cheddar), and do note that if you rush the roux or stir the eggs quickly over heat that’s too high, you’ll end up with a lumpy disaster. This is an easy dish to prepare, but it does require patience.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
- 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
- 8 slices white bread, trimmed and torn into pieces
- 11⁄2 cups milk
- 11⁄2 pounds extra-sharp cheddar cheese, coarsely grated
- 10 large eggs, beaten
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
- Cayenne pepper to taste
INSTRUCTIONS
- In a large, heavy skillet, melt the butter.
- Add the torn bread and milk to the skillet.
- Mash the bread and milk mixture steadily and thoroughly over moderately low heat with a heavy fork until the mixture has the consistency of a soft, smooth roux. Add more milk if necessary.
- Add the grated cheese to the skillet and continue mashing and stirring until the cheese is well incorporated and the mixture is very smooth.
- Add the beaten eggs, salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper to the skillet.
- Stir slowly and steadily with a large spoon until the eggs are set and the mixture is almost creamy. If the mixture sticks to the bottom of the skillet, lower the heat while stirring.
- Serve the cheese and eggs piping hot in a chafing dish or a large heated bowl.
