WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In this hearty cold-weather side dish or main course, sweet roasted butternut squash is paired with nutty, chewy barley, sage, and Parmesan. Barley is sold in several forms, but in the test kitchen we prefer pearl barley, which has been hulled and polished. With the bran removed, the texture of the cooked grain is pleasantly springy. Also, the grain’s starchy interior is exposed, which creates a supple, velvety sauce when simmered. Barley requires more liquid and more time to cook than the usual Arborio rice, but we have found that barley takes well to a modified version of our risotto method. We started traditionally by sautéing aromatics, toasting the grain, and simmering the mixture with wine. We then bucked the tradition of adding hot liquid in small intervals
and poured in 3 cups of it at once, allowing the barley to simmer and only giving it the occasional stir. The simmering action agitated the barley enough that it released its starch, making constant stirring unnecessary. Once the barley had absorbed the broth, we added 2 more cups of liquid and continued to simmer. After the grains absorbed that liquid, we gradually added more, stirring constantly, until the barley cooked through. We added half of our squash to the simmering barley to break down and thicken, and then stirred in the remaining squash pieces right before serving.

Serves 8

TOTAL TIME: 2 hours

INGREDIENTS

• 1½ cups pearl barley
• 2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces (6 cups)
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper
• 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
• 4 cups water
• 1 onion, chopped fine
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1½ ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (¾ cup)
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh sage
• ⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Rinse barley in fine-mesh strainer under cold running water until water runs clear. Drain briefly. Spread grains on rimmed baking sheet lined with clean dish towel. Let dry for 15 minutes.
2. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Line second rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Toss squash with 2 teaspoons oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper in bowl to coat. Spread squash over prepared sheet. Roast until tender and golden brown, about 30 minutes; set aside.
3. Meanwhile, bring broth and water to simmer in medium saucepan. Reduce heat to lowest possible setting and cover to keep warm.
4. Cook remaining 1 teaspoon oil and onion, covered, in large saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in barley and increase heat to medium. Cook, stirring often, until lightly toasted and aromatic, about 4 minutes. Stir in wine and continue to cook, stirring often, until wine has been completely absorbed, about 2 minutes.
5. Stir in 3 cups warm broth mixture and half of roasted squash. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is absorbed and bottom of pan is dry, 22 to 25 minutes. Stir in 2 cups warm broth mixture and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is absorbed and bottom of pan is dry, 15 to 18 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring often and adding remaining broth, ½ cup at a time, as needed to keep pan bottom from becoming dry (about every 4 minutes). Continue to add broth until barley is cooked through and still somewhat firm in center, 15 to 20 minutes.
6. Off heat, stir in Parmesan, butter, sage, nutmeg, and remaining squash. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.