WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS You may not immediately recognize this dish and its variations as the familiar roasted butternut squash, but actually, that’s the point. A recipe in London-based chef Yotam Ottolenghi’s book Plenty introduced us to an alternative squash universe. He roasts thin skin-on half-moons of squash and then tosses them with savory ingredients, from chiles and lime to toasted nuts and spiced yogurt, which serve as a surprisingly successful foil to the squash’s natural sweetness. We decided to bring this approach into the test kitchen and put our own spin on it. Tasters were equally smitten with Ottolenghi’s approach, but they also had a few suggestions. So our first move was to lose both the skin and the white layer of flesh underneath, both of which tasters found unappealing (We could have bought prepeeled squash, but we’ve found that the flavor of whole squash that you peel yourself is superior.) To achieve deeper caramelization on the squash slices, we positioned the baking sheet on the lowest oven rack, where it would absorb more heat from the main heating element on the oven’s floor. We then flipped the squash (and rotated the baking sheet) partway through roasting so that both sides could caramelize. Melted butter produced better browning than olive oil, thanks to its milk proteins that undergo the Maillard reaction, leading to more complex flavors and aromas. These slices emerged perfectly caramelized, wonderfully sweet, and tender. The crowning touch was to come up with a few toppings that provided a mix of contrasting textures and bold flavors.

Serves 4 to 6

TOTAL TIME: 1 hour

INGREDIENTS

• 1 large (2½-to 3-pound) butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and sliced crosswise ½ inch thick
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon pepper
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 3 pieces
• ⅓ cup hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and chopped
• 1 tablespoon water
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• Pinch salt
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives

INSTRUCTIONS

1. FOR THE SQUASH:

• Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 425 degrees.
• Toss squash with melted butter, salt, and pepper in bowl to coat.
• Arrange squash in single layer on rimmed baking sheet.
• Roast squash until side touching sheet toward back of oven is well browned, 25 to 30 minutes.
• Rotate sheet and continue to bake until side touching sheet toward back of oven is well browned, 6 to 10 minutes.
• Remove squash from oven and use metal spatula to flip each piece.
• Return to oven and roast until squash is very tender and side touching sheet is browned, 10 to 15 minutes.

2. FOR THE TOPPING:

• While squash roasts, melt butter with hazelnuts in 8-inch skillet over medium-low heat.
• Cook, stirring frequently, until butter and hazelnuts are brown and fragrant, about 2 minutes.
• Immediately remove skillet from heat and stir in water (butter will foam and sizzle).
• Let cool for 1 minute.
• Stir in lemon juice and salt.

3. TO SERVE:

• Transfer squash to large serving platter.
• Drizzle butter mixture evenly over squash.
• Sprinkle with chives.
• Serve warm or at room temperature.

VARIATIONS

• ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH WITH RADICCHIO AND PARMESAN:
  Omit topping. Whisk 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar, ½ teaspoon mayonnaise, and pinch salt together in small bowl. While whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil until combined. Before serving, drizzle vinaigrette over squash and sprinkle with ½ cup coarsely shredded radicchio, ½ ounce Parmesan cheese, shaved into thin strips, and 3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts.

• ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH WITH TAHINI AND FETA:
  Omit topping. Whisk 1 tablespoon tahini, 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, 1½ teaspoons lemon juice, 1 teaspoon honey, and pinch salt together in small bowl. Before serving, drizzle tahini mixture over squash and
  sprinkle with ¼ cup finely crumbled feta cheese, ¼ cup shelled pistachios, toasted and chopped fine, and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint.

• ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH WITH YOGHURT AND SESAME SEEDS:
  Omit topping. Whisk 3 tablespoons plain Greek yogurt, 4 teaspoons extravirgin olive oil, 4 teaspoons water, and pinch salt together in small bowl. Combine 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds, 1 teaspoon toasted and crushed coriander seeds, ¼ teaspoon dried thyme, and pinch salt in second small bowl. Before serving, drizzle yogurt mixture over squash, sprinkle with sesame seed mixture and ¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves.