If you ever see a stewing hen for sale at your local farmers market, pick it up in a hurry because the flavor is incomparable. But, like most pasteurized birds, they require extra care in cooking. After a few years on the pasture, a laying hen will slowly decline in her egg production. Farmers harvest these spent hens and sell them as stewing hens to differentiate them from traditional meat birds. Unlike meat birds, stewing hens have been bred over generations for maximum egg production. Meat birds, by contrast, have been bred for packing muscle meat onto their frames quickly. Typically leaner, lighter, and less dense than meat birds, stewing hens benefit from very long, slow cooking for soups, stews, casseroles, or broth making. This stew of chicken, leeks, cream, and prunes tastes mild and gentle, perfect for rainy evenings when one craves comfort food. The stronger flavor of a stewing hen works well in this recipe; however, if you cannot find a stewing hen, simply substitute a whole chicken.

SERVES 6 GENEROUSLY

INGREDIENTS

• 1 whole chicken, preferably a stewing hen (about 3½ pounds)
• Water
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
• 6 leeks
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3 ribs celery, finely diced
• ½ cup heavy cream
• ½ cup pitted prunes, very thinly sliced
• Finely ground unrefined sea salt

INSTRUCTIONS 

1. Rinse the chicken under cold water inside and out until the water runs clear.
2. Place the chicken in a heavy stockpot and cover it with cold water.
3. Drop in the bay leaves and peppercorns.
4. Trim the root tips and the dark green leaves from the leeks and add the trimmings to the pot.
5. Slice the white and light green section of the leeks paper thin and set them in a bowl while you prepare the chicken.
6. Bring the pot with the chicken to a rolling boil over medium-high heat, then cover the pot and lower the heat to medium. Simmer the chicken for 1½ hours, or until the meat loosens from the bone.
7. Turn off the heat, remove the chicken from the pot, and place it on a platter to cool until you can comfortably handle it.
8. Strain the broth through a colander into a large bowl or pitcher.
9. Wipe the pot clean with a kitchen towel to remove any stray peppercorns or leeks.
10. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove its skin and pick the meat off the bones.
11. Shred the meat with a fork and set it in a bowl until you need it.
12. Melt the butter in the stockpot over medium heat. When it begins to froth, stir in the white and light green part of the leeks.
13. Sauté until they soften, about 6 minutes, but do not let them brown.
14. Stir in the celery and continue cooking for 3 to 5 minutes longer, until the celery releases its fragrance.
15. Add the shredded chicken to the pot, then pour in the reserved chicken broth.
16. Simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes.
17. Stir in the cream and prunes.
18. Cover the pot, turn off the heat, and allow the prunes to soften in the residual heat of the stew.
19. Season with salt, ladle into bowls, and serve.