In India no railway journey would be complete without the smell of freshly cooked vadai at every station. Vadai make great starters and, being high in protein, they are also great for lunch boxes.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

• 1 cup yellow split peas (chana dal)
• 2 cups shredded fresh spinach, washed
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 1–1 1/2 green chiles, finely chopped
• 1 tsp. minced gingerroot
• 5 curry leaves, finely chopped
• 1/2 tsp. garam masala or turmeric
• 2 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
• sea salt
• sunflower oil, to fry

FOR THE COCONUT CHUTNEY:

• 1 cup freshly grated coconut
• 2 tbsp. chopped onion
• 1 fresh green chile
• 2 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 tbsp. lemon or lime juice
• 1 tbsp. black mustard seeds

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Soak the split peas for at least 2 hours, and then drain.
2. Cook the washed spinach until wilted in a saucepan with no water other than that clinging to the leaves; drain and cool.
3. To make the chutney, combine all the ingredients except the mustard seeds in a blender until coarsely ground, adding a little water if necessary.
4. Heat the mustard seeds in a hot dry pan until they pop. Add to the chutney and adjust the seasoning to taste. Set aside until ready to serve.
5. Put the drained peas in a food processor and blend to a coarse paste without adding any water.
6. Tip into a bowl and stir in the cooked spinach and the remaining ingredients.
7. Using wet hands, form the mixture into small round patties about 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
8. Heat a little sunflower oil in a skillet and fry the vadai in batches, turning to ensure that they are golden brown all over.
9. Drain on paper towels and keep warm until serving.

VARIATIONS:

PLAIN VADAI IN YOGURT SAUCE:

• Prepare basic vadai, omitting the spinach. In place of the chutney, make a sauce with 2 cups soy yogurt, 2 tablespoons water, and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and sugar or to taste. Pour over vadai and garnish with red chili powder, ground cumin, and fresh coriander leaves.

VADAI AND FRSH TOMATO CHUTNEY:

• Prepare basic vadai. Make a tomato chutney by combining 3 skinned and chopped tomatoes with 1 finely chopped red onion, 1/2 cup freshly chopped mint, 1 tablespoon chile-flavored oil, and 1 teaspoon toasted cumin seeds.

VADAI AND FRESH MANGO CHUTNEY:

• Prepare basic vadai. Serve with mango chutney.

RED CHILE VADAI AND COCONUT CHUTNEY:

• Prepare the basic recipe, but make a hotter version by using red chiles in place of the green chiles.