ANYBODY WHO DOUBTS THAT MACARONI AND CHEESE has a Southern pedigree need only be directed to any
cafeteria from Virginia to Alabama to observe the heaping spoonfuls being plopped on virtually every plate that passes down the line. History has not recorded whether this was the dish Thomas Jefferson had in mind when he sent an emissary to Naples for a macaroni machine, but it’s for sure that by the mid nineteenth century, the casserole was evolving from layered macaroni and cheddar cheese baked with an egg-and-milk custard to a much more elaborate production involving different cheese sauces and all sorts of seasonings. Today, Southerners still argue
whether mac ’n’ cheese should be made with a custard or a sauce, as well as whether it is correct to bake it in a cast-iron skillet or casserole. Personally, I couldn’t care less, as long as the dish contains plenty of cheese, is never allowed to overcook and dry out, and is served piping hot. To give the casserole a bit of zest, add about 1⁄2 teaspoon of dry mustard.

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) butter
• 1⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
• 21⁄4 cups milk, heated
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄8 teaspoon grated nutmeg
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Cayenne pepper to taste
• 31⁄2 cups grated extra-sharp cheddar cheese
• 1⁄2 pound elbow macaroni
• 1⁄2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a 11⁄2-quart casserole dish and set aside.
2. In a large, heavy saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat.
3. Add the flour to the melted butter and whisk for 1 minute.
4. Gradually add the heated milk to the saucepan while whisking constantly. Continue whisking until the mixture bubbles and thickens.
5. Remove the saucepan from the heat and add the salt, grated nutmeg, black pepper, cayenne pepper, and grated cheddar cheese. Stir until the cheese melts completely. Set aside.
6. Fill another large saucepan with water and bring it to a boil. Add the macaroni to the boiling water and cook according to the package directions.
7. Drain the cooked macaroni well in a colander.
8. Stir the drained macaroni into the cheese sauce until well blended.
9. Scrape the macaroni and cheese mixture into the prepared casserole dish.
10. Sprinkle freshly grated Parmesan cheese over the top.
11. Bake the casserole until it turns golden brown on top, about 30 minutes.
12. Serve the macaroni and cheese piping hot.