Every autumn, I buy root vegetables by the case and store them in an
exterior closet that keeps an even, but cold, temperature. I leave the dirt on
the roots because it helps them to keep for several months, and as I pack
the roots into their boxes, I insulate them with old bath towels and
newspapers to keep them from freezing during the subzero nights that
arrive in January and February. Kept like this, nestled away in their boxes,
they’ll last all winter long and into the spring, when greens, herbs, peas, and
new vegetables begin to appear once more.
I make this soup frequently in the winter, plucking a few onions,
celeriacs, beets, and carrots from those boxes, chopping them finely, and
letting them simmer in a simple beef broth spiced with allspice, black
pepper, and sweet bay. A spoonful of Milk Kefir and a sprinkling of fresh
dill cut the inherent sweet earthiness of the root vegetables. SERVES 4 TO 6

INGREDIENTS

• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
• 2 teaspoons allspice berries
• 2 tablespoons lard or olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 small leek, white and light-green parts only, thinly sliced
• 1 celeriac, peeled and chopped
• 2 carrots, peeled and chopped
• 5 beets, peeled and chopped
• 2 teaspoons finely ground unrefined sea salt
• 6 cups Beef Bone Broth
• ¼ cup chopped fresh dill
• Milk Kefir, to serve

INSTRUCTIONS 

1. Place the bay leaves, peppercorns, and allspice berries on a 4-inch square piece of muslin or cheesecloth, tie it with a bit of cooking twine, then set the bundle aside.
2. Melt the lard in a heavy stockpot over medium heat.
3. Stir in the onion and leek and fry them in the hot fat until they release their fragrance and soften, about 3 minutes.
4. Stir in the celeriac, carrots, and beets.
5. Sprinkle them with the salt, then cover the pot and sweat the vegetables for 20 minutes, or until crisp-tender.
6. Stir in the beef broth, drop in the bundle of bay and spices that you prepared earlier, and simmer the soup for 20 minutes, until the vegetables are tender but not so soft that they fall apart.
7. Pluck out the bundle of spices and stir in the dill.
8. Top each serving with a dollop of kefir.