WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The flavor of roasted fresh beets is head-and-shoulders above that of the canned version. They are intensely sweet and firm, rather than tinny, tangy, and mushy. So how, exactly, do you roast a beet? We tried several different methods. The first approach simply blasted untrimmed beets in a hot oven. While they possessed an intense flavor, they took hours, shrank to a fraction of their size, and the skins dried to desiccated husks that required a razor-sharp paring knife to remove. Another method involved roasting the beets in a covered baking dish partially filled with water. The beets cooked faster, but in terms of flavor, they might as well have been boiled. A third approach roasted the beets in a covered dish with no water. This made an unholy mess as exuded beet juices stuck fast to the pan bottom. For our fourth method, we wrapped each unpeeled beet tightly in foil and roasted them on a baking sheet. The results tasted every bit as sweet and intense as those roasted uncovered, but they cooked in half the time and peeled easily.

Serves 4

TOTAL TIME: 1 hour 15 minutes

INGREDIENTS

• 1 pound beets, trimmed
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. Wrap beets individually in aluminum foil and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast until beets can be easily pierced with a paring knife, 45 minutes to 1 hour, removing beets individually from the oven as they finish cooking.
3. Open foil packets to allow steam to escape and let cool slightly.
4. Once beets are cool enough to handle, rub off skins with paper towels.
5. Slice beets ¼ inch thick and place in a medium bowl.
6. Add oil, season with salt and pepper to taste, and toss to combine.
7. Serve warm or at room temperature.

VARIATIONS

• ROASTED BEETS WITH DILL-WALNUT VINAIGRETTE:
  Increase oil to 6 tablespoons. While beets cool in step 2, whisk oil, 1 minced shallot, 1½ tablespoons minced fresh dill, 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, and 2 teaspoons lemon juice together in medium bowl. Add cooled, sliced beets and ½ cup toasted, chopped walnuts to bowl with vinaigrette and toss gently to combine. Roasted Beets with Ginger Butter and Chives Omit oil. While beets cool in step 2, melt 4 tablespoons unsalted butter in 8-inch skillet over medium heat. Add one 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks, to skillet and cook until fragrant and crispy, 3 to 4 minutes. Off heat, add 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives and stir to combine. Add butter mixture to bowl with beets.