The date shines during Ramadan, the Muslim month of fast, even more so than at any other time of the year. Apart from the fact that many Arabs break their fast by eating dates, there are many breads and sweets that are made with them during that time, including this one that you find in the souks of Tripoli in North Lebanon, as well as those of Damascus and also, in the past before they were destroyed, the souks of Aleppo. They are usually sold off street carts or in bakeries. They are also made at home. You can shape them small or very large, and in the case of the latter they are pricked all over to achieve a decorative effect. I got the following recipe from a charming baker in Byblos, Lebanon, who also explained to me all about the making of ka’keh (a sesame bread that looks like a handbag). He fills his with dates as described below, and also makes them plain as a sort of brioche-like bread. These breads freeze very well and I often make a batch to freeze and have for breakfast whenever I feel like it.

MAKES 6 INDIVIDUAL BREADS

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE DOUGH:

• 3⅓ cups (400 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading and shaping
• 1 packet (7g/2¼ teaspoons) instant (fast-acting) yeast
• ⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt
• ½ teaspoon whole milk powder
• ¾ teaspoon baking powder
• ¼ cup (50 g) baker’s sugar or superfine sugar
• ½ tablespoon (7 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE FILLING:

• 9 ounces (250 g) pitted dates (10 to 12 Medjool dates)
• 4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter

TO FINISH:

• Toasted sesame seeds
• Egg wash: 1 egg yolk whisked with 1 teaspoon water

INSTRUCTIONS

1. To make the dough: Mix the flour, yeast, salt, milk powder, baking powder, and sugar in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the softened butter and oil to the well and, with the tips of your fingers, rub into the flour until well incorporated. Gradually add 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (280 ml) warm water, bringing in the flour as you go along. Knead until you have a rough ball of dough. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 2 to 3 minutes.
2. Shape the dough into a ball and invert the bowl over the dough.
3. Let rest for 15 minutes.
4. Knead for 3 more minutes, or until the dough is smooth and elastic.
5. Shape into a ball and place in a clean, lightly floured bowl.
6. Cover with plastic wrap.
7. Let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 2 hours.
8. Fold after the first hour: Take the dough out of the bowl. Gently flattening it with the palm of your hands, fold it over into a rectangle, then fold the rectangle into a square. Return to the bowl with the folded side down. Cover and let rise for 1 more hour.
9. To make the filling: Process the dates in a food processor until coarsely chopped. Add the butter and process until you have a fine paste. Roll into a ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate while the dough is rising.
10. Transfer the dough to your work surface.
11. Divide into 6 equal portions, each weighing about 4 ounces (125 g). Roll each into a ball.
12. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 15 minutes.
13. Divide the date paste into 6 equal portions. Roll each into a ball.
14. Roll out one ball of dough to a round 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter.
15. Flatten a ball of date paste to a 4-inch (10 cm) disk.
16. Place the date disk in the middle of the disk of dough and fold the dough over, gently pulling and stretching until you completely cover the date filling.
17. Pinch the edges to seal and, with your hands, flatten further to make an even disk.
18. Scatter sesame seeds all over a nonstick baking sheet (or a regular baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat).
19. Transfer the filled bread to the baking sheet, placing it seam side down.
20. Cover with plastic wrap.
21. Make the other breads the same way and transfer to the baking sheet. Cover with a wet, but not dripping, kitchen towel. Let rise for 30 to 45 minutes.
22. Twenty minutes before the breads are ready to bake, preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).
23. Brush the breads with the egg wash and sprinkle sesame seeds all over the tops. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown all over. Let cool on a wire rack. Serve at room temperature.