CHEAP EATS

No self-respecting bistro can call itself such without steak frites (steak and French fries) on the menu. More often than not, the steak of choice is hanger steak, called onglet in French. Its popularity is due to its deep beefy flavor and quick preparation time. Unfortunately, there is only one hanger steak per animal, and traditionally it was usually taken home by the butcher for his family, which is why it’s sometimes called
butcher steak. The hanger steak hangs off the interior of a suspended beef carcass (hence its name), just below the tenderloin on the left side of the steer. It helps to support the diaphragm and consists of two lobes of loosely grained meat separated by a strip of gristle; it weighs about 2 pounds untrimmed. If the butcher hasn’t trimmed it, cut out the gristle by cutting along either side of the strip to yield two uneven 1-pound steaks. To ensure quick cooking, butterfly each steak so that you end up with pieces ¾ to 1 inch thick. Because this steak is somewhat chewy, it’s very important to slice it across the grain. The grain is clearly visible, because the muscle striations are loose; the fibers run diagonal to the long axis of the steak and are easier to slice across if you cut each steak crosswise into two pieces. Because hanger steak has a nice robust flavor, it’s ideal for marinating. It’s also quite tasty when coated with a dry rub or spice paste. It’s best cooked to medium-rare, and never more than medium (pink), because this lean steak can easily dry out.

Serves 4

BEER MARINADE

INGREDIENTS 

MARINADE

• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons malt vinegar
• ¼ cup soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
• 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
• ½ cup beer (I use an amber ale)
• 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

STEAK

• 1 hanger steak (about 2 pounds), divided into 2 lobes and butterflied (see headnote)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Vegetable oil

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Whisk together the mustard and oil in a small bowl. Whisk in the vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, and rosemary, then whisk in the Worcestershire, beer, and 2 teaspoons pepper.
2. Place the steaks in a zipper-lock bag. Pour the marinade over the steaks, seal the bag, and turn and shake to distribute the marinade. Place the bag in a bowl and refrigerate overnight, or for up to 24 hours, turning the bag from time to time.
3. Remove the steaks from the marinade (discard the marinade), and pat the steaks dry. Let rest at room temperature for 40 to 60 minutes.
4. Lightly season the steaks with salt and pepper.
5. Heat a heavy ridged grill pan or cast-iron skillet over high heat and brush with a thin coating of vegetable oil.
6. Lay the steaks in the pan and grill for 2 to 3 minutes, or until nicely browned.
7. Turn and grill for 2 to 3 minutes more, or until the internal temperature registers 125°F to 130°F for medium-rare.
8. Transfer the steaks to a carving board, cover loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes before carving.
9. Cut each steak in half, then cut across the grain into ¼-inch-thick slices.

ALTERNATIVE CUTS

• Skirt steak
• Flank steak
• Flat-iron steak
• Bottom sirloin flap steak (bavette)

COOK’S NOTE

• Since hanger steak can be hard to find, you may need to ask your butcher to order it. Have him trim the gristle and butterfly it for you.
• If you have well-marbled steaks, omit the marinade and simply season them generously with salt and pepper.
• If you’d prefer to cook the steak on a charcoal or gas grill, leave it whole and don’t butterfly it. Follow the directions for grilling top round.