WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a slaw with a more tender, delicate texture and sweeter flavor than usual, we traded traditional green cabbage for napa cabbage. But napa cabbage’s more delicate structure means that it leaches even more water than regular cabbage. Our solution to avoid a soggy slaw? We made a potent dressing with a high ratio of vinegar to oil, and we also cooked down the dressing’s vinegar to offset the diluting power of the cabbage’s water. After we tossed the cabbage with the dressing and let it sit for about 5 minutes, the slaw achieved the perfect level of bright acidity. Adding crunchy carrots, some colorful herbs, and a handful of sesame seeds gave the slaw additional layers of flavor and texture. Use the large holes of a box grater to shred the carrots. This slaw is best served within an hour of being dressed.

Serves 6 to 8

Total time: 35 minutes

INGREDIENTS

• ⅓ cup white wine vinegar
• 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
• 2 teaspoons vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 1 small head napa cabbage (1½ pounds), cored and sliced thin (8¼ cups)
• 2 carrots, peeled and shredded
• 4 scallions, sliced thin on bias
• ¼ cup sesame seeds, toasted

PREPARATION

1. Bring white wine vinegar to simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat and cook until reduced to 2 tablespoons, 4 to 6 minutes.
2. Transfer the vinegar reduction to a large bowl and let cool completely, about 10 minutes.
3. Whisk in sesame oil, vegetable oil, rice vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, ginger, and salt.
4. Add cabbage and carrots to the dressing and toss to coat. Let sit for 5 minutes.
5. Add scallions and sesame seeds and toss to combine.
6. Serve.

VARIATIONS

• NAPA CABBAGE SLAW WITH APPLE AND WALNUTS:
  Omit sesame oil and increase vegetable oil to 4 teaspoons. Omit soy sauce and ginger. Substitute cider vinegar for rice vinegar. Decrease sugar to 2 teaspoons and increase salt to ¾ teaspoon. Substitute 2 celery ribs, sliced thin on bias, and 1 grated Fuji apple for carrots. Substitute 3 tablespoons minced fresh chives for scallions and ½ cup walnuts, toasted and chopped fine, for sesame seeds.

• NAPA CABBAGE SLAW WITH JÍCAMA AND PEPITAS:
  Omit sesame oil and increase vegetable oil to 4 teaspoons. Omit soy sauce. Substitute lime juice for rice vinegar, honey for sugar, and ½ teaspoon ground coriander for ginger. Increase salt to ¾ teaspoon. Add 1 seeded and minced jalapeño. Substitute 6 ounces jícama, peeled and grated, for carrots. Substitute ¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro for scallions and ½ cup roasted and salted pepitas, chopped fine, for sesame seeds.