If you are worried about sustainability, the one seafood you can eat with a totally clear conscience is mussels. This recipe is a reworking of a classic moules marinières. Be sure to eat it with some good bread to soak up all those fantastic juices.

SERVES 2

INGREDIENTS 

• 2 pounds fresh mussels
• Olive oil
• 3 scallions, trimmed and chopped
• 1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
• 1 celery stalk, trimmed and finely diced
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
• 1 fresh red chile, seeded and finely chopped
• 4 thyme sprigs, leaves only
• 1 bay leaf
• 1–2 Tbsp vermouth
• ⅔ cup dry white wine
• 2 Tbsp crème fraîche
• Small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Crusty bread, to serve

INSTRUCTIONS

1. To test that the mussels are okay to eat, place them in a sink or large bowl of cold water. Throw away any that do not close when tapped against a hard surface. Drain the mussels and remove the beards.
2. Heat a large, heavy-bottomed sauté pan or shallow saucepan over high heat. Add a good glug of oil and sauté the scallions, shallot, celery, garlic, chile, thyme, and bay leaf together. Cook for 2 minutes, shaking the pan, until the shallot and celery start to become tender.
3. Add the mussels to the pan and shake over very high heat for about 30 seconds. Cover tightly with a lid and leave to steam for 1–2 minutes, shaking the pan now and again. When the mussels begin to open add the vermouth and wine and continue to cook, uncovered, for an additional 1–2 minutes to reduce the liquid. Cover and cook for a final 30–60 seconds until the mussels have completely opened. Discard any that remain shut at the end of cooking.
4. Add the crème fraîche and parsley to the pan, then taste and season with salt and pepper as needed. Cover the pan and shake to combine the flavors. Remove the lid, stir, and serve immediately with plenty of crusty bread.