ONE OF THE BIG ENIGMAS OF MODERN SOUTHERN cookery is why fresh salmon, now so readily available even in supermarkets, has never gained the popularity of flounder, snapper, bass, and catfish in Southern homes or restaurants. Canned salmon, on the other hand, has been a staple of the Southern kitchen as long as I can remember, used from Virginia to Tennessee to Arkansas to make all sorts of dips, spreads, loaves, croquettes, mousses, and, to be sure, exotic molded salads. Is it best to use fresh, flaked, cooked salmon in this particular salad? Not really. As my mother says, “I defy anybody to notice any difference between fresh and canned salmon in molded salads.”

Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 2 envelopes unflavored gelatin
• 1 cup water
• 1 cup mayonnaise
• 1⁄2 cup half-and-half
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1 tablespoon snipped fresh dill (or 1⁄2 teaspoon dried dill weed)
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 cups canned, drained salmon
• 1⁄2 cup finely chopped celery
• 3 tablespoons seeded and finely chopped green bell pepper
• 1 tablespoon minced onion
• 4 to 6 leaves red-tipped leaf lettuce

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a small saucepan, soften the gelatin in the water for 5 minutes.
2. Place the saucepan over low heat and stir until the gelatin is dissolved. Remove from heat and let it cool.
3. In a large mixing bowl, combine the mayonnaise, half-and-half, lemon juice, dry mustard, dill, and black pepper. Stir until well blended.
4. Add the dissolved gelatin to the mixture and stir until well blended and smooth.
5. Add the salmon, celery, bell pepper, and onion to the mixture. Stir until well blended.
6. Scrape the mixture into a greased 8-cup ring or fish-shaped salad mold.
7. Cover the mold with plastic wrap and chill until firm, for at least 3 hours.
8. Serve the salad in slices on top of the lettuce leaves.