WHEN I WAS GROWING UP IN NORTH CAROLINA, GOING
quail hunting on Saturday mornings was almost a rite of passage, and a certain guarantee of roasted or fried birds or a rich stew that same evening. Of course, in some areas of the South, quail are generally called bobwhites (a name supposedly derived from the sound the birds make), while in others the term is partridge, despite the fact that America has no true partridge like that found in Europe. About the only person I know who still shoots his own quail is an old friend in Memphis, and when Henry comes back with a half dozen or so birds, you can be sure they’ll end up in a pot and simmered slowly with whatever fresh vegetables he has on hand. Today, what both professional and home cooks alike use are farm-raised quail (fresh or frozen). While they are less robust in flavor than their wild cousins, they’re nevertheless succulent birds that deserve more attention.

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 8 quail, dressed
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 4 slices bacon, cut into bits
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 large onions, finely chopped
• 1 carrot, scraped and finely chopped
• 3 ripe tomatoes, chopped
• 2 large potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes
• 2 cups fresh or frozen lima beans
• 2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
• 1 bay leaf
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Cayenne pepper to taste
• 3 quarts water

INSTRUCTIONS

1. On a plate, dredge the quail in the flour, tapping off any excess.
2. In a large, heavy pot, fry the bacon over moderate heat till crisp.
3. Drain the bacon on paper towels and set aside.
4. Add the vegetable oil to the pot.
5. Add the onions and carrot to the pot and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.
6. Add the reserved bacon, chopped tomatoes, potatoes, lima beans, corn kernels, dried thyme, bay leaf, salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper to the pot.
7. Bring the mixture to a low simmer.
8. Cover the pot and cook for 2 hours, adding a little more water if the stew thickens too much.