SOUTHERN BARBECUE ENTHUSIASTS MIGHT DEBATE vehemently over which region, state, or city produces
the best chopped pork barbecue, pulled pork, barbecued shrimp, or dry-rub chicken, but when it comes to barbecued pork ribs, only a fool denies that the undisputed capital is Memphis, Tennessee. Pitmasters may win distinguished prizes in Richmond, Virginia, Lynchburg, Tennessee, Tryon, North Carolina, or Jonesboro, Arkansas, but until they garner at least a “First Place Ribs” prize at the annual Memphis in May World Championship, they really haven’t made the grade. Memphis is all about smoky barbecued ribs, and at least in my gluttonous experience, the city’s leading exponent is the original Corky’s barbecue house, which has been around since 1982 and which utilizes both a
dry-rub and a tangy-sweet moppin’ sauce for its pit cooked ribs. Naturally, both recipes are big secrets, but I think my approximation, based on many visits and cagey conversations with cooks and waiters, comes pretty close to the magic.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE GRILL:

• 1 small bag hickory chips (available at nurseries and hardware stores)
• One 10-pound bag charcoal briquets
• Vegetable oil for brushing

FOR THE DRY-RUB:

• 1⁄4 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons chili powder
• 2 tablespoons paprika
• 2 teaspoons dried thyme, crumbled
• 2 teaspoons dried oregano, crumbled
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

FOR THE MOPPIN’ SAUCE:

• 1⁄2 cup cider vinegar
• 1⁄2 cup tomato sauce
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon molasses
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

FOR THE RIBS:

• 4 racks baby back pork ribs (about 2 pounds each)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

1. To set up the grill, soak 2 to 3 handfuls of hickory chips in a pan of water for 45 minutes.
2. Arrange a thick layer of charcoal briquets over the bottom of an outdoor grill, ignite, and when the coals are ashen (30 to 45 minutes), sprinkle the soaked chips evenly over the coals.
3. Meanwhile, combine all the ingredients for the dry-rub in a bowl and mix till well blended.
4. In another bowl, combine all the ingredients for the moppin’ sauce and whisk briskly till well blended.
5. Using a sharp knife and, if necessary, a pair of pliers, cut and pull off the membrane from the back of each rack of ribs.
6. Season the ribs with salt and pepper, then rub each with about 2 tablespoons of the dry-rub mixture.
7. When ready to grill, brush the grill rack with oil, place the ribs on the rack bone-side down, and grill about 15 minutes.
8. Turn the ribs over with tongs and grill 15 minutes.
9. Brush with a little moppin’ sauce, turn the ribs over, and grill 15 minutes.
10. Brush again with sauce, turn, and grill 15 minutes longer or till very tender. (Replenish the coals and chips if necessary, and if the dripping fat causes flare-ups, move the ribs around or flick a little water over the coals.)
11. Transfer the ribs to a cutting board, brush them with more sauce, then sprinkle enough dry-rub over the surfaces to form a crust.
12. Serve as whole racks or cut into sections, with extra dry-rub on the side.