LEGEND HAS IT THAT DURING THE FIRST YEARS ON THE
Kentucky frontier, housewives followed the cows into the region’s meadows and picked only the wild greens the cows ate to avoid poisonous plants, and no doubt one of these was the tangy sour grass (sorrel) that still flourishes throughout much of the state during the spring. Combine this with the area’s starchy Irish potatoes and exceptional aged country ham, and you simply won’t come up with a lustier soup, reminiscent of the best colonial cookery. Fresh sorrel is now available in spring and early summer in most fine markets. Look for bright, crisp, light green leaves,
avoiding any that are yellowed or wilted. (A perennial, sorrel is one of the easiest and heartiest herbs to grow in the home garden, and I use mine also in all sorts of salads.) One warning: if you use a food processor to make this soup, you risk ending up with mush instead of the correct rough purée.

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 5 russet potatoes (about 2 1⁄2 pounds), peeled and cubed
• 5 quarts water
• 6 tablespoons (3⁄4 stick) butter
• 2 large Spanish onions, chopped
• 1⁄2 cup finely chopped country ham
• 3 cups chopped sour grass (sorrel) leaves, torn
• 1 1⁄2 cups milk
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Chopped fresh chives for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a large saucepan, combine the cubed potatoes and water.
2. Bring the water to a boil, then reduce the heat to moderately low and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
3. In a large, heavy skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat.
4. Add the chopped onions and country ham to the skillet and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes.
5. Stir in the chopped sour grass (sorrel) leaves and cook for an additional 1 to 2 minutes until the sorrel wilts.
6. Transfer the onion, ham, and sorrel mixture to the saucepan with the cooked potatoes.
7. Add the milk to the saucepan and stir everything together.
8. Simmer the mixture for about 5 minutes.
9. Transfer the soup mixture to a blender and add salt and pepper.
10. Blend the mixture until it reaches a rough purée consistency.
11. Return the puréed soup to the saucepan and heat gently until piping hot.
12. Serve the soup in soup plates.
13. Sprinkle a few chopped fresh chives over each portion as garnish.