IN THE EARLY 1970S , I WAS AT COMMANDER’S PALACE
in New Orleans the day that head chef Paul Prudhomme came up with this chicken-and-sausage gumbo and owner Ella Brennan was searching for a catchy name for it. “We wanted to offer a nonseafood gumbo in the restaurant,” Ella recalls today, “and when Paul created this one, I happened to be reading a political novel with ‘Ya Ya’ in the title, and said to myself, ‘Why not?’” The rest is history, for today gumbo ya ya (like blackened redfish) has been imitated, modified, and transformed into a Southern classic in homes and restaurants throughout the country. As for the actual origin and meaning of the term ya ya, neither Ella nor I had the remotest idea till a friend informed me that ya means “rice” in one African dialect. The version here is the original recipe I jotted down that day in New Orleans.
Do be very careful not to burn the roux; to attain the color of milk chocolate, the oil and flour should take about 4 minutes of constant whisking, though the timing can vary.

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• One 2- to 2 1/2-pound chicken
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 medium onions, chopped
• 1/2 medium green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1/2 pound smoked sausage (like kielbasa), thinly sliced
• 1/4 pound baked or boiled ham, cubed
• 2 bay leaves
• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
• 1 teaspoon salt
• Cayenne pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons filé powder (available in specialty food shops)
• 3 cups boiled white rice

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Disjoint the chicken and place it in a large pot or kettle with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the chicken is tender, for 30 to 40 minutes.
2. Remove the chicken from the pot and let it cool enough to handle. Skin, bone, and shred the meat. Strain the cooking broth into another large pot and set it aside.
3. In a large, heavy pot or casserole, heat the oil until very hot.
4. Gradually add the flour to the hot oil, stirring constantly with a whisk. Cook the roux over moderate heat, still whisking constantly, until it reaches the color of milk chocolate, about 4 minutes. Be careful not to burn the roux.
5. Add the chopped onions, green bell pepper, garlic, sausage, and ham to the pot. Mix thoroughly and continue cooking, stirring, for about 10 minutes.
6. Add 2 cups of the reserved broth, the shredded chicken, bay leaves, oregano, thyme, salt, and cayenne pepper to the pot. Stir thoroughly.
7. Add 2 more cups of the reserved broth to the pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1 hour.
8. Remove the pot from the heat and add the filé powder. Stir well and let it stand for 10 minutes.
9. Distribute equal amounts of boiled white rice in the bottom of 6 soup bowls or plates.
10. Ladle the gumbo over the top of the rice.
11. Serve the gumbo piping hot.

NOTE

• Filé powder is a traditional thickener used in gumbo. It is made from ground sassafras leaves and is available in specialty food shops.