AS ANYONE KNOWS WHO’S EVER BELLIED UP TO THE
Acme Oyster House in New Orleans’ French Quarter and uttered to one of the expert shuckers, “Half dozen to start,” Gulf oysters are the fattest, most succulent oysters on earth. Bay Adams, Four Bayous, Baptistes, Choctawhatchees the names go on and on, from Panama City, Florida, to Biloxi, Mississippi, to Lafayette, Louisiana. Locals love them mostly on the half shell with cocktail sauce, but they also roast them, sauté them, fry them, and incorporate them into elaborate sauced dishes and simple soups and chowders. I guess I’ve eaten oysters every way possible
along the Gulf coast, but this creamy oyster and corn chowder I was served in Mobile is one preparation I’ll
never forget. Any impeccably fresh oysters can be used, but I can’t emphasize enough the importance of searching for the freshest corn you can find—ears with lots of milk still in the kernels. Sure, frozen corn could be substituted if absolutely necessary (especially if you, like me, freeze your own right off the cob during late summer), but there is a difference in taste and texture.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 4 ears of very fresh corn (preferably Silver Queen)
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 6 scallions (part of green tops included), chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 2 cups milk
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 dozen large fresh oysters, cut in half, with liquor reserved
• Chopped fresh chives for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS

1. On a plate, cut the kernels from the corn (there should be about 2 cups). Scrape off as much of the milk from the cobs as possible and set aside.
2. In a large, heavy saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat.
3. Add the chopped scallions and minced garlic to the saucepan. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
4. Pour in the milk and cream, and bring it almost to a boil.
5. Add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.
6. Add the halved oysters, along with their liquor, to the saucepan. Also, add the corn kernels and their milk.
7. Bring the mixture to a boil, then remove it from the heat and let it stand for 5 minutes.
8. Serve the chowder in soup plates.
9. Garnish each portion with chopped fresh chives.