With just a hint of spice, this cool, sharp, salty soup is great for stimulating the appetite in the summertime, when the heat is oppressive and you don’t feel like eating much. My Western friends say it is a Korean version of gazpacho, but it doesn’t have a tomato base. (I loved gazpacho so much when I first had it in Spain that I started garnishing my
cucumber soup with a little tomato, but that is not traditional.) And, unlike gazpacho, cold cucumber soup is not served on its own, but with rice, to balance its saltiness. I learned how to make the soup in middle school in Korea. My home ec teacher revealed the secret: Mix the cucumbers and seasonings first, so they are well combined, before you add the cold water and ice cubes. Once the ice cubes are added, the soup is a lot harder to mix. Seedless cucumbers are best for this dish. You can substitute 2 or 3 Kirby cucumbers, but halve them lengthwise and scrape the seeds out with a spoon before slicing them into matchsticks.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

• 1 English cucumber, peeled and cut into 3-inch-long matchsticks
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• ¼ cup thinly sliced onion
• 1 tablespoon chopped green (cheong-gochu) or red (hong-gochu) Korean chili pepper (optional)
• 1 scallion, chopped
• 1 teaspoon soy sauce
• 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 4 teaspoons distilled white or cider vinegar
• 7 or 8 ice cubes (about 1 cup)
• 1 cup cold water
• 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
• A few slices of tomato for garnish (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Combine the cucumber, garlic, onion, chili pepper, scallion, soy sauce, salt, sugar, and vinegar in a medium bowl and mix well with a spoon.
2. Add the ice cubes and water and stir well.
3. Transfer the soup to a serving bowl.
4. Crush the sesame seeds between your thumb and index finger and sprinkle them over the soup.
5. Garnish with the tomato, if desired, and serve immediately.