INNOVATIVE CHARLESTON AND SAVANNAH CHEFS SEEM finally to be discovering perloo, awendaw, Huguenot
torte, and any number of other distinctive dishes that once figured prominently in Carolina and Georgia Lowcountry cuisine. But, so far, not one seems to be even aware of this superlative curried meat custard that probably graced both breakfast and dinner tables during the plantation era. I can remember eating hobotee at the old Fort Sumter Hotel in Charleston and hearing my grandmother tell about fixing it for breakfast and elaborate fish dinners. A recipe for the dish is included in the classic cookbook Charleston Receipts, but other than that, the only recorded method for making hobotee I know of is this sacred one my mother inherited from her mother, who no doubt inherited it from hers. Served with glasses of semidry sherry as a starter to any seafood meal, small ramekins of hobotee make for a unique culinary experience that should never have been allowed to almost disappear.

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon curry powder
• 11⁄2 cups finely chopped cooked beef, veal, or pork
• 1 slice white bread, soaked in milk and squeezed dry
• 2 tablespoons chopped almonds
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 3 large eggs
• 1⁄2 teaspoon sugar
• Salt to taste
• 1 cup half-and-half
• Dash of white pepper
• Small bay leaves

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Preheat the oven to 300°F.
2. In a skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat. Add the chopped onion and cook, stirring, until softened for about 2 to 3 minutes.
3. Add the curry powder to the skillet and cook, stirring, for an additional 2 minutes.
4. Transfer the onions to a mixing bowl and add the finely chopped meat, soaked and squeezed bread, chopped almonds, lemon juice, one of the eggs, sugar, and salt. Blend the ingredients thoroughly.
5. Butter six 1⁄2-cup ramekins.
6. Divide the meat mixture equally among the ramekins.
7. In another bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 eggs, half-and-half, and white pepper until well blended.
8. Pour equal amounts of the cream mixture into each ramekin.
9. Garnish the tops of the meat cups with a small bay leaf on each.
10. Place the ramekins in the preheated oven and bake for about 25 minutes or until the tops turn golden.
11. Remove the curry meat cups from the oven and serve them hot.