WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Hailing from the state of Oaxaca, black mole is also known as mole negro. This thick, complexly flavored sauce consists of dried chiles, spices, tomatillos, tomatoes, cocoa, dried or fresh fruit, nuts, and seeds. Its intense, subtly bitter flavor and deep brown, almost black color sets it apart from other moles. Usually paired with meat or poultry, it functions as both a sauce and a cooking medium. For our version, we chose to pair the mole with pork, which is one of the most commonly used proteins of the Oaxaca region. Pork loin was particularly well suited to the moist cooking environment; tying the roast at 1½-inch intervals ensured that it cooked evenly. We quickly browned the pork in a Dutch oven to deepen the meat’s flavor and create flavorful fond in the pot. After removing the roast, we sautéed onion until it was a very deep brown, which contributed to the color and complex flavor of the mole. We then added garlic, oregano, cloves, and cinnamon for aromatic, warm spice notes. Next, the tomato and tomatillos went into the pot to concentrate their flavors. Adding chicken broth allowed us to scrape up the flavorful browned bits on the bottom of the pot. We then finished the sauce with toasted pasilla chiles, peanuts,
sesame seeds, raisins, and cocoa powder; black cocoa powder (cocoa powder that has been heavily Dutched) worked especially well for its intense flavor and deep, dark color. Cooking the nuts, seeds, and cocoa along with the pork gave
them plenty of time to hydrate and soften, making it easier to blend them into a smooth sauce later. You can find black cocoa powder in specialty stores or online. While we prefer the deeper flavor of black cocoa powder in this recipe, Dutch-processed cocoa powder also works well. Serve with rice.
Serves 6
INGREDIENTS
- 4 pasilla chiles, stemmed, seeded, and torn into ½-inch pieces (1 cup)
- 1 (2½-to 3-pound) boneless pork loin roast, fat trimmed to ¼ inch, tied at 1½-inch intervals
- Salt and pepper
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1 onion, chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled
- 2 teaspoons minced fresh oregano or ½ teaspoon dried
- ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
- ⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 2 tomatillos, husks and stems removed, rinsed well, dried, and cut into 1-inch pieces
- 1 tomato, cored and cut into 1-inch pieces
- 2 cups chicken broth
- ¼ cup unsalted dry-roasted peanuts
- 3 tablespoons black or Dutch-processed cocoa powder
- 3 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted
- 2 tablespoons raisins
INSTRUCTIONS
- Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 250 degrees. Toast pasilla chiles in Dutch oven over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant, 2 to 6 minutes; transfer to bowl.
- Pat roast dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in now-empty pot over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roast well on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate.
- Add onion to fat left in pot and cook over medium heat until softened and well browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, oregano, cloves, and cinnamon and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatillos and tomato and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in broth, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in peanuts, cocoa, 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, raisins, toasted pasillas, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper and bring to simmer.
- Nestle browned pork fat side up into pot along with any accumulated juices. Cover, transfer pot to oven, and cook until pork registers 140 degrees, 40 minutes to 1 hour.
- Transfer pork to carving board, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, process cooking liquid in blender until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Season sauce with salt and pepper to taste.
- Remove twine from roast, slice into ¼-inch-thick slices, and transfer to serving platter. Spoon 1 cup sauce over pork, sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sesame seeds, and serve with remaining sauce.