Gnocchi made from potatoes or ricotta may be the most familiar, but there are many other kinds found throughout Italy. Spinach gnocchi in Rome, mushroom gnocchi in the Alto Adige, and bread gnocchi in the Tyrol are just a few of the kinds I have enjoyed. Made by kneading together a bit of flour and whatever else was on hand, gnocchi were probably created as a sort of desperation dinner, when times were hard and people were hungry. The name alone, which means “lumps” in Italian, seems to indicate that they were not very special. Now, enriched with cheese or coated with sauce, they make a luxurious addition to any meal. The prizewinner for the prettiest gnocchi I have ever eaten were the brilliant pink gnocchi made with beets and ricotta I had in the town of Ravenna, in the Emilia-Romagna region. I serve them on top of a creamy Gorgonzola sauce so that their gorgeous color shines.

Serves 6 to 8

INGREDIENTS

• 1 (15-ounce) container whole- or part-skim-milk ricotta
• 2 medium red beets (about 3 ounces each), roasted and peeled
• 1 large egg
• 1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• About ⅔ cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 recipe Gorgonzola Cream Sauce, heated

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Place the ricotta in a strainer lined with cheesecloth set over a bowl. Drain for at least several hours, or overnight, in the refrigerator.
2. Cut the beets into chunks. Place them in a food processor and puree. Add the ricotta, egg, Parmesan, and salt and pepper to taste. Pulse until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl.
3. Add ⅔ cup flour and stir to blend, adding more only if needed. Don’t handle the dough any more than necessary, or it will become tough.
4. Line a large baking sheet with foil and dust it with flour. Lightly dust a dish with flour.
5. Scoop up a tablespoonful of the dough and, with a second spoon, push it off into the dish. Roll the dough lightly in the flour and place it on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough, leaving space between the gnocchi on the sheet. (The gnocchi can be refrigerated overnight or frozen for up to 1 month. To freeze, place the baking sheet in the freezer and freeze until firm, then transfer to a freezer bag, seal tightly, and freeze.)
6. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Have a large heated bowl ready. Place the butter in the bowl and let it melt, swirling it to coat the bowl. Keep warm.
7. Drop half of the gnocchi a few at a time into the boiling water so that they don’t stick together and stir gently. Lower the heat so the water is just simmering. When the gnocchi rise to the surface, cook for 30 seconds more.
8. Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon and transfer them to the bowl. Cover and keep warm. Cook and drain the remaining gnocchi and add to the bowl.
9. Spoon a little of the hot sauce onto each plate. Top with the gnocchi. Sprinkle with Parmesan and serve immediately.