IF THE HIGH RATIO OF FAT TO LEAN MEAT IS WHAT makes baby back pork ribs so ideal for the barbecue grill, lean, meaty country-style ribs, cut from the shoulder end of the pork loin, are the perfect candidate for slow parboiling, before being finished in the oven with a robust barbecue sauce to give them plenty of character. Beautiful as these ribs might look in the market, be warned that if you simply plop them on a hot grill and baste them with sauce, not only will the meat most likely be tough, but by the time they’re halfway edible the sauce might have burned. I have successfully barbecued these ribs slowly over very low heat on a covered grill, but the long procedure is just not worth the time and effort—not when this alternate method produces such succulent results.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 8 meaty country-style pork ribs
• 1⁄4 cup peanut oil
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 11⁄2 cups water
• 1 cup ketchup
• 1⁄2 cup cider vinegar
• 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tablespoon chili powder
• 1 tablespoon firmly packed dark brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dried oregano
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Arrange the ribs in a large pot.
2. Add enough water to cover the ribs.
3. Bring the pot to a boil, skimming any scum off the top.
4. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and simmer the ribs until tender, about 11⁄2 hours.
5. Preheat the oven to 350°f.
6. In a large, heavy, stainless-steel, or enameled saucepan, heat the oil over moderate heat.
7. Add the chopped onion and minced garlic to the saucepan.
8. Cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes.
9. Add the remaining ingredients to the saucepan.
10. Stir the ingredients until well blended.
11. Bring the sauce to a simmer.
12. Cook the sauce uncovered, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, for about 20 minutes.
13. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the ribs to a large, shallow baking dish.
14. Pour the sauce over the ribs in the baking dish.
15. Bake the ribs in the preheated oven until slightly browned, about 20 minutes.
16. Turn the ribs over in the baking dish.
17. Bake the ribs, basting several times with the sauce, until the other sides are slightly browned and the meat is very tender, for an additional 15 to 20 minutes.
18. Serve the ribs and sauce on a large, deep platter.