OF ALL THE SEA ISLANDS OFF THE SOUTH CAROLINA coast, only Edisto has resisted, indeed rejected, the massive development that has completely transformed Hilton Head, Kiawah, St. Helena, and most others. To
attend a family oyster roast or barbecue on pristine Edisto Beach, as I have several times, is not only to move back a century in time but to witness the culinary rituals in their most primitive forms. Typically, barbecuing is done on grates over live wood or charcoal fires in open pits, and when the menu involves pork or chicken, the sauce is almost guaranteed to include mustard (so scorned up in North Carolina) and a few of the benne (sesame) seeds indigenous to so much coastal South Carolina cookery. Bottles of benne seeds are available in most health food and specialty food shops, but beware that, due to their high oil content, they turn rancid rapidly if not frozen. Also, since
bennes become slightly bitter when overcooked, remember to turn this chicken regularly on the grill.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1⁄2 cup sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• One 3- to 31⁄2-pound fryer chicken, cut into serving pieces
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon honey

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a large bowl, combine the wine, oil, sesame seeds, thyme, oregano, salt, and pepper.
2. Whisk the ingredients until well blended.
3. Add the chicken pieces to the bowl.
4. Toss the chicken to coat well with the marinade.
5. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.
6. Let the chicken marinate at room temperature for about 1 hour, turning the pieces once.
7. Ignite a layer of charcoal briquets in an outdoor grill.
8. Let the briquets burn until they are ashen (30 to 45 minutes).
9. Place the grill rack about 6 inches from the coals.
10. Drain the chicken and reserve the marinade.
11. Place the chicken on the grill.
12. Cook the chicken on both sides until it is almost tender, about 30 minutes in total.
13. Turn and baste the chicken with the marinade from time to time.
14. In a small bowl, combine the mustard and honey.
15. Add 2 tablespoons of the remaining marinade to the bowl.
16. Whisk the ingredients until well blended.
17. Brush the mustard-honey mixture over the chicken.
18. Continue cooking the chicken until it is fully tender, for an additional 10 to 15 minutes.
19. Transfer the chicken to a platter.
20. Serve immediately.